Window guide Sash guide on GM vehicles
The power window regulators on GM vehicles are failing by the zillions. But before you pony up the $$$$ for a new regulator, remove the door trim panel and check the SASH clips. They are nylon clips that are glued to the bottom of the window glass. They bolt into metal clips on the regulator. These clips fail at an alarming rate. The tell-tale signs that you have a broken clip and not a broken regulator are a creaking sound when you operate the window. Another sign is a window that will not close all the way, leaving about a 1/2-in gap at the top of window travel. If you suspect that you have a broken sash clip, go to Dormanproducts.com and enter your vehicle ID. GM calls them SASH guides but Dorman calls them Door Glass Attaching Clips. There are 2 styles used in most GM applications and the 
Dorman kit includes 2 of each style. The kit retails for about $12 at auto parts stores (under the HELP brand). Clips at the dealer run about $40 (so I’ve heard).
The issue is how to remove the old clips and what adhesive to use with the new ones. Keep in mind that the side window glass is tempered but NOT laminated (like the windshield). So if you scratch the glass in any way while removing the old clips, the glass will immediately shatter into a zillion pieces. I’ve used a sharpened chisel and small hammer to chip away the old plastic clip. Plus, I’ve left a bit of the old adhesive in place for the epoxy to bond to.
3M Automix Channel Bonding and Sidelite Adhesive, 2 oz Black, flexible and durable adhesive is the one to use. It’s made for for bonding moveable and stationary glass into place. Has a 4 to 5 minute worklife and drive-away time of one hour. Dispense with 3M 2 ounce Automix Applicatior Gun, part number 8191, and 3M Automix Mixing Nozzels, part number 08197.
To do this repair you will have to remove the entire window from the door. To do that, you will have to remove the door trim panel and the interior window trim. Unbolt any remaining Sash clips from the regulator and tilt the front of the glass down while you lift the rear portion up and out. Also, check the regulator. Often it looks like just the sash clip is broken. But many times the plastic guides that the regulator sash rides on breaks as well. Then you have to replace BOTH the clips and the regulator. What causes the sash clips to break? The glass sticks to the rubber strip at the top of the window channel. To avoid this damage, spray the rubber strip with silicone spray several times per year. Also, spray dry Teflon lube (available at any home center) down the window channels front and back. That will lubricate the window travel and put less stress on these cheesy plastic clips
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© 2007 Rick Muscoplat
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I just don’t understand why some metal machinist doesn’t make a metal version of these and sell them on ebay or advertize on the internet. My god he could make a million. I would buy a set of metal clips way before I would buy the cheap plastic ones. Oh! and make a metal version of the clips on the cable too. They are just as cheaply made.
@Cindy,
They make them out of nylon instead of metal so that they will break instead of breaking the glass if the windows gets bound for any reason. Much rather replace $12 clip than $300 glass.
Good point—except that these cars have an exceptionally high failure rate on both the retainers and the regulator. This is almost certainly a design defect. Other makes don’t have nearly the failure rate.