Replace a power window motor & regulator
Manufacturers have redesigned power window mechanisms and you’re paying the price for it. The new mechanisms, known as window regulators, are lightweight and flimsy. They raise and lower the window with cables that often bind or break. If the window channels aren’t lubricated (use silicone or dry Teflon spray), the friction overloads the motors and they burn out or strip the “spool” that winds the cables.
Rather than pay a shop $350 to replace the regulator, do it yourself. Knowing where the hidden fasteners are will save a LOT of wasted time and frustration. (Be a sport and buy a subscription to either the manufacturer’s online manual or Alldata—after all, you’re saving several hundred dollars by doing it yourself).
Next, go to www.rockauto.com. There are a few other companies making aftermarket window regulators. I have no experience with those other companies, so I can’t vouch for their quality.
The only special tool you’ll need is a trim panel remover tool (about $5 at any auto parts store). Start by removing the visible screws. Then pop off any plastic “vanity” caps that appear to serve no useful purpose. You’ll find they’re covering screws. Almost every car I’ve ever worked on has screws or bolts holding the arm rest to a bracket. Once again, look for plastic “vanity” covers if you can’t find those fasteners. (See the photo)
Once the screws are out, start at the lower portion of the trim panel and begin popping out the plastic “Christmas tree” fasteners. 
They’re usually located along the perimeter of the door. (See photo)
Lift the trim panel up and off the door.
Then disconnect the electrical connectors
to the window and door lock switches. (See photo) With the trim panel now removed, peel off the vapor barrier. (It has to go back on, so be careful while removing it)
Take a look at the photo of the window regulator I shot from the outside (Yes, I DID cut a hole in a door just so you can see what you’re dealing with.
It was a junkyard door so don’t freak out 
on me. That’s also why it’s so dirty. If you want me to shoot pictures of clean doors, simply mail me a check for $145 and I’ll spray some Windex on it next time. In the meantime, you’re getting this for free, so quit complaining)
Power window
You can see that the regulator is really a very simple mechanism. The window sill gets pulled up and down by the cable. Your next step is to remove the window glass. To do that, you’ll need to move the sill down so you can reach it with your sockets. Remember, you’re doing this from the inside (unless you too want to cut a hole in your door). Can’t get the window into position 
so you can remove the glass? Reach around the regulator track from the inside and cut one of the cables with a wire cutter. BUT MAKE SURE you’ve got someone holding the glass! Then lower the glass, remove the bolts and pull the glass up and out. The glass pulls out by tilting it towards the outside of the door.
Next, disconnect the electrical connector from the motor. Then you can remove the fasteners holding the regulator in place. Tip the regulator and feed it out through a hole in the door panel. If you can’t get it out and you haven’t already snipped a cable, do that now. That will allow you to move the sill up or down.
Here’s a tip: The inside of your door contains s
harp metal edges. WEAR LEATHER GLOVES!
All these instructions are for cable regulators. If you have an older vehicle with a scissors style regulator, you can fix those too. BUT heed this warning. Scissors style regulators usually have a coiled assist spring—like a clockspring. You must secure this spring before you remove the motor. Skip this step and your next move may be to the ER for a broken finger! The easiest way to secure the spring is to drill a hold in the regulator and insert a nut and bolt through the spring to clamp it down.
Dorman sells 
replacement motors. But if you have a cable regulator, you may find that the old motor is riveted in place. If you want to spend the time to drill out those rivets, be my guest. But once you remove the motor, you may find a stripped cable spool. That’s why I recommend replacing the entire regulator. That, plus the fact that Dorman has fixed the problems that plague the OEM models.
Reverse the entire procedure to reinstall.
Not sure if the problem is in the regulator? Here’s how to check. Window motors only have two wires going to them. The window 
switch alternates the power and ground connections to power the motor up and down. So, attach the positive and negative probes of your digital volt meter to the electrical connector going to the motor. Then flip the window switch in both directions. You should see the voltage change from +12 volts to -12 volts. If you see that, it means the motor is getting power from the switches. Switches good. Motor bad.
Hope this saves you hundreds of dollars. Good luck!
Buy a new window regulator here
UPDATE!!!!
Do NOT under any circumstances insert a l
arger fuse–unless you like your vehicle on the well done side. That’s a great way to start a fire! If the motor is drawing too much power, it would have already blown the existing fuse. (Don’t ever let your friend do any electrical work on your house, car, or tree house)
If the new regulator isn’t operating smoothly, either there’s an obstruction in the track, or the regulator is not aligned properly. To eliminate the track as a possibility, run a flat blade screwdriver down each side channel to clear out any debris. Then spray each channel with either spray silicone or dry teflon lube (it’s actually a spray that dries).
Has the window glass ever been broken? If so, small glass shards get stuck in the channels and screw up the movement.
Once you’re convinced that the channels are clean and lubricated, you’ll have to try a few adjustments on the regulator. GM leaves some play in the mounting holes. So try tilting the entire regulator assembly forward or backwards a bit to see if it helps.
Just for everyone’s benefit, the window regulator is a HUGE problem (and I mean HUGE) on GM and Chrysler vehicles. In fact, this article on regulator replacement is the most popular on this entire blog. I get more mail on this topic than any other.
I went to the APEX/SEMA show (Automotive Parts Exposition) in Las Vegas in ’97 and counted at least 10 companies offering aftermarket window regulators. When you see that many companies jumping into the regulator business, it’s an indication that it’s a huge market.
The older gear driven regulators rarely failed. Sure, the motors would burn out, but the mechanism was solid. Then Chrysler came up with their brilliant plastic “window tape,” that had sprockets like 8mm movie film. The motor gear engaged the sprockets and pushed the tape up or down a channel that was attached to the glass. Needless to say, the window tape was a disaster. Now we’ve got the cable driven systems and they’re even worse.
Bottom line: The OEM cable driven assemblies are poorly designed and poorly built.
For more information on this repair or any others for your vehicle, buy an online subscription to either Alldatadiy.com or eautorepair.net. Click on this link to compare the two services: Compare Alldata and Eautorepair.
If you just need information for a single repair and want to save money,eautorepair offers a lower price 1-week subscription for only $11.99. Or, if you’ll be working on this vehicle in the future, you can buy a 1-year subscription (Alldatadiy.com for $26.99, or eautorepair.net $29.99)
© 2007 Rick Muscoplat
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I have 2003 Chevy Impala and the rear passenger window just decided that it doesn’t want to go up, but it will still go down. All the other power windows work fine. Any ideas?!?!
I’ve read through the comments/replies here (as well as at several other sites), but I’m still not sure what I should do.
Let me preface this by saying I’m not a mechanic and I have no clue how to do all the tests you suggest. Today, my d-side window on my ’01 Pont Montana got stuck in the down position. I managed to get it to come back up by pulling the switch holder out of my door and doing a lot of wiggling.
When it went back up, it went smoothly – just like it has always done, but when I let it back down a little again, I had to use the same method to get it to go back up again.
Is this problem more likely my switch or something more drastic? I’m trying to decide if I should go ahead and replace the switch (which I can do myself) or if I should spend the money to take it to the shop.
If you can’t do the tests, take it to a shop. The regulator fails far more often than the switch.
Rick your blog is magnificent. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with all of us.
Have a 02 Buick Renedezvous that has the driver’s side window separated from the window sill. Actually when I took the door trim off I discovered the window sill was lying broken at the bottom of the door cavity. It appears that it was attached to the regulator cables with a plastic clip (which is now broken in three pieces). If I buy a new regulator will it come with a new sill? If not will this part need to be purchased from the dealer? If so that’s fine but then I’m wondering , “How will I get it on?” It looks like the plastic part of the sill would clip on to the regulator cable and then the window just sits on the rubber seat…..sound right? I can’t believe the sill doesn’t BOLT on to the cable and instead just clips on. And I thought the window sill is supposed to be glued to the window not just resting on it? Any advice on this Buick Rendezvoodoo is much appreciated. Thanks Rick.
Hi Rick, Great Blog!!!
I have 99′ blazer and I beleive either my motor or gears on my driver side regulator are shot. It failed while half way down and I am unable to raise it. I think the gears are binding as I hear a slight hum when I push the window switch. Do you know of any way I can raise the window, or unstick the gears? It’s very difficult to see what is happening inside or remove the regulator bolts with the window like this.
Thanks!
Rick – Thank you great article.
I have a 01 Buick with plastic housing for cable end that is attached to the regulator (snap on). The cable is loose so the window does not go up. Buick says cant buy the 10 cent snap need to replace regulator. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Gary,
You can’t fight city hall. Buy a new regulator from rockauto.com and be done with it.
Rick,
Thanks for the pics and time you took posting the how-to’s here. I have a 95 Isuzu Rodeo. The cables on the passenger side regulator are splayed/shot, but I can still hear the motor working. When buying the replacement parts, I can purchase the regulator w/out the motor or should I spring for a completely new set?
Thanks for your time,
Mary
Great article. I appreciate that you respond to comments.
So I’ll leave one. Another question.
2000 Grand Prix, rear window. Hasn’t worked in a while, then the window went down and won’t come back up. Pulling it up works, but it won’ stay up. Cable right? I don’t really care if the window works again, I just want the window to stay up. Any obvious answers to lock it in place?
Thanks.
Here you go Marcos:
Remove the trim panel. Cover the top of the door with a piece of cardboard and apply tape to the inside glass and loop it over the top of the door and attach it to the outside of the glass. That will hold it in place while you’re working on the interior.
With the window taped in place, drill a small hole in the track that the sill rides on. Then install a sheet metal screw through the track and sill and it will be locked in place.
I have a 2002 Nissan Altima. I have a problem with the front passenger window. The clip, which holds the glass window and which is bolted to the regulator, is broken. Can I buy this part else where? I wanted to buy another clip to re-attach to the window. Is this okay to do? What is the name of this part? Where can I get it from? Thanks!
Rick,
I have an 04 Toyota Highlander with a rear seat window that wouldn’t roll up but would go down, then I find it’s off track and it’s all the way down now. My son had just been leaning on it while raised only a few inches. We were both enjoying the temp differences as we drive around here in central tx as fall approaces. I can hear the motor, so is it just off track or motor also?
I appreciate your time.
Dee
Hello Rick,
04 Toyota Highlander, rear passenger window won’t come up, can hear motor run for up or down command; window is loose – off track.
Thank you,
Dee
hey rick just came across this blog and i have a problem. My Driver side windows goes down everytime i start my car. It’s really wierd. And i can’t put it up until like 10 seconds after i start the car. once it is up i can’t put it down again till i start my car. any suggestions?
Hi Rick -
THANK YOU for sharing your great info. We have a 2003 Chevy Cavalier with both driver’s and passenger’s front windows that no longer operate. This is apparently a huge problem with Cavaliers, according to what we have read on the Internet. There is no way we can spend $600 to have these repaired, so ordered one motor online. Thank God we found your site with instructions, as we had no idea where to start or what to do. It took all day to fix the driver’s side, but we learned a LOT, and now that window works. Now we’re ready to order a new motor for the passenger’s side. Thanks so much for your help, as we could not have done it without it. Your diagrams were very helpful as well. – Carol
Rick, thanks for the great tutorial… I have a 02 Ford Explorer, and I’m replacing the front passenger regulator. It appears to be a rivet holding the window glass to the regulator clip instead of a bolt (?)… do I just drill it out and replace it with a bolt when I reassemble?
Thanks again! Greg
Greg,
Yes, drill out the old rivet. It takes a 1/4″ diameter rivet and a large rivet gun–not something most DIY’ers have in their garage. Replace it with a nut and bolt with a lock washer and a drop of removable Locktite. You can pick up the Locktite at any auto parts store. Make sure the bolt clears the mechanism all the way up and down the track.
Hi Rick -
I just bought a used 02 Venture. Had no issues with the windows until this AM. Window will come UP fine, but doesn’t want to go down… I’m hopeful that its the switch in my case; but, was just curious if you’ve seen many cases of regulator failure when the window will go up fine.
Thanks – Mike
Hi Rick, I have a 1997 Pontiac Grand Am SE. The passenger front window motor needs to be replaced. I went to an auto salvage and purchased a motor and it has 3 bolts to where the car has 4 rivets. Is it possible that I don’t have the right one? Also I am having a problem getting the old one out. I removed the 4 rivets but it still wont come out. Any advice?
I know this is buried in previous comments, but I’ll go through it again.
Remove the door panel and connect a voltmeter to the two terminals on the electrical connector to the motor. Then operate the switch. The voltage should toggle from 12v to -12v. If it does, your problem is NOT in the switch, it’s a bad regulator. Period. It’s really that simple.
As for the rivets versus bolts: bolts are ok to use as long as they are short enough to provide proper clearance on the whole distance of travel for the window. Just make sure you use Locktite on the threads to ensure they won’t loosen up over time.
Best way to remove a rivet is to drill off the head and push the whole rivet out. Don’t waste your time trying to punch the steel pin out.
i have a 1996 dodge avenger and for some reason my windows wont work at all, last winter my passenger window got stuck in the down position and i had to hard wire the motor to get it to roll back up, i cant find any fuses and all the relays in the car work. i even tried replacing the drivers door switch. before it broke i had no weird vibrations or anything it just quit. i would greatly appreciate your input on this subject since im completely stumped.
thanks.
Thanks so much for this. Any tips for a 2002 Acura RL? Don’t know if there is anything different I should watch out for. This is my first window repair. Two years ago this window was broken and replaced by a glass shop. I’m just guessing it’s a coincidence that it’s the same one that has a broken mechanism now (back passenger).
Hi Rick,
I bought a 1996 toyota corolla. Front Passenger side and Rear side power windows are not working. I just to correct the front passenger window. When I press button from driver side, there is no response. Passenger side button is also not working.
I opened the passenger side door and checked the wires connected with motor. I am getting 15V (using volt meter)while pressing button upwards and getting ‘click’ sound also. Since window glass is already in the up position (close Position), i guess motor could not rotate, but its trying to rotate.
But if I press the button downwards, I am NOT getting -15v instead its showing 0V. Also I am NOT getting any click sound.
What could be the reason? Pls help me.
It could be that your meter isn’t equipped to display negative voltage. To check it out, reverse the leads and press the UP button, since you know that it will read +15v. If it read OV then you know the meter can’t read negative voltage.
Also, are you doing these tests with the engine running? Battery voltage should be in the 12.2-12.7V range.
Thanks for your reply Rick. Like you, I got the same doubt and I did reversing the leads. That time also, its shown +15v and 0V while pressing up and down respectively. (Its a multimeter. It will show negative value also, without reversing leads. I got this from friend. he told this).
Regarding the issue, While lifting up the button, there is just a “click” sound, No movement of any links. While pressing down, no response.
Is problem with Motor or switch?
Pls help me. Thanks.
Yeap. I did the test while engine is running.
We have a 2005 Dodge Caravan and the passenger window stopped working. The dealer said the motor needed replaced due to a faulty regulator for $450. We went to buy the motor for $85 and was told it came without the regulator, dealer said motor and regulator were all 1 piece. We’ve tried to buy just the regulator but can’t find one available for the 2005 Caravan. Sounds like it’s a dealer specific part.
Any ideas or comments on this or where we could get the regulator without going through the dealer?
Try http://www.rockauto.com. They list a left and right side regulator for your vehicle.
DORMAN Part # 741534 {Original Equipment Solutions}
100% NEW; Front Left; Power Window Regulator w/Motor $89.79
DORMAN Part # 741535 {Original Equipment Solutions}
100% NEW; Front Right; Power Window Regulator w/Motor $89.79
Thank you Rick. We were prepared to live without a working passenger window but now it looks like we can get it fixed.
I am going to try and look into this.
My problem sounds similar to Lenin’s post from a few days back.
I have a 2003 Buick Century. The front passenger and back passenger – both stopped working right around the same time.
I am thinking it is the switch – since both died around the same time. I will try to find a volt meter and confirm this. Any other pointers?
I would have to do this on both windows – right? What signs will I get if it is a bad switch? Will it be O V on all test?
Remove the door panel and connect a voltmeter to the two terminals on the electrical connector to the motor. Then operate the switch. The voltage should toggle from 12v to -12v. If it does, your problem is NOT in the switch, it’s a bad regulator. Period. It’s really that simple.
Hi Rick,
I have a 1999 Dodge Durango and the drivers side window is stuck in the down position. I removed the door panel and have access to the glass, but have no clue as to how to get it back in the up position. I am not worried about fixing the real problem as to why it won’t go up using the switch, I just want to get the window closed. Any ideas on how to manually get the window closed?
Thanks!
Brian
Brian,
Unplug the connector to the motor and apply 12v positive and ground to the motor terminals. Then switch the polarity. If the motor pulls the window up, then your problem is located in the switch. If you can’t get the motor to move the window up even after hot wiring the motor, you will have to cut the cables with a wire cutters and hold the window closed with tape and jamming something in the track in case the tape fails.
Great blog, very entertaining!
I have a 2000 Mercury Mountaineer, the passenger side front window of which was broken into by some loser for 3 dollars while parked in my apartment building’s parking lot. ( FYI everyone, don’t leave your GPS or cell phone cradle stuck on your windshield when you park, as this can be an indication to someone that you may have something of value in your car) I was so angry that someone had dared to rip me off and because I had declined the glass coverage option while picking my insurance policy that I was going to tape some plastic up and drive around like that. Also, I was hoping that the person that broke into my car probably lives somewhere in my complex, seeing my taped up window, feel guilty.
Well, 5 weeks later, the sound of plastic flapping around while driving has gotten to me so I have decided to finally fix it.
I have removed the interior door, and cleaned out all the glass pieces. It looks like there are two black brackets which are riveted to the rail that make the window go up and down. On the new glass there are two metal tabs with holes punched in them glued to the bottom, I assume to be placed in to these brackets on the rail. How do I open the brackets on the rail to remove the little bits of glass still left inside and then attach the new window? These brackets move a little but I don’t want to pull too hard and break them off the rail. I also see a tab in the center of the bracket that moves slightly when I use a screwdriver to pry it up. Could that be the answer to installing the new window? I can’t imagine that Ford would use rivets instead of screws to anchor the window to the rail. That would just be stupid and bad planning on Fords behalf. You know if one would ever need to replace a broken window. Please help!
Yup, Ford used rivets. They really don’t care about replacement costs. All they care about is assembly time at the factory. So yes, you have to drill out the rivets. The metal tabs on the new glass should fit where the old riveted tabs are. That’s the way I’ve always see the new glass. But if yours aren’t like that, contact the place where you got the glass and ask them how it goes together.
Rick, sure appreciate the info. I am a bit stumped though and hope you have some insights. 97 pontiac grand prix, drivers window would not go up, checked the voltage at the connector had 12+ and 12- there. Replaced the regulator and motor assembly. Putting back together, tested the operation and motor still only operates going down. When I connect a + probe to the Blue wire connector and push the Up button I get 12+ reading, then if I push down I get -12 reading. I’ve tried jumpering it with same results. What gives? could the switch still be bad somehow? Or could it be the connector?
Thanks for your help.
Greg
Rick,
My 2002 Corolla driver’s side window (with gear/scissors type regulator) was stuck in the down position. Although the proper +12/-12 volts were applied to the motor, no motor hum, click, or motion was detected when either “up” or “down” voltages were applied.
I removed the glass, then rotated the motor/regulator upside-down to access to the motor.
(1) Should I just replace the motor, or also the gear/scissors type regulator? (I understand I need to block the spring.)
(2) The Hanes manual says each motor has an individual internal circuit breaker. Can the breaker be reset? (I see no external reset switch.)
(3) The “down” switch continues to deliver -12 volts to keep lowering the window after the switch is released. What stops the current from flowing after the window is all the way down, so the motor doesn’t overheat?
Thanks! Sure hope you can help.
adding to my previous question…
(4) A new Dorman regulator comes with a new spring (uninstalled). How do you safely install the new spring between the new regulator and new motor?
I’ve never replaced the spring so I can’t help you on this one.
i have a problem, i have a 2001 isuzu rodeo with power window woes.
ive done a lot of repairs on this particular make and model of power windows, and have never seen something like what this one is doing.
first comes first. What is NOT WRONG with it.
alright, all 4 window motors are good, and the regulators slide smoothly.
If i open the door and hit that window switch, the window goes down fine.
the drivers side window also works great.
But heres where it gets ugly.
all three passenger windows will work perfectly with or without the drivers side switches installed.
but they will not roll down from the drivers side. the drivers side window rolls down fine, but the other three wont from the master switch.
Ive already taken a master switch out of another rodeo where all of the windows works fine, but when i plug it into this rodeo, it does the same thing, no deal.
the problem is absolutely NOT in the switch, its something else.
ive also replaced the power window relay with a new one and the power window circuit breaker. NO deal, still doesnt work.
this particular truck has been a nighmare trying to figure out what it is, because i definately know what is NOT wrong with it.
this is the first rodeo ive spent more than an hour on trying to diagnose the problem, any help is most welcome.
Here’s the key that you’re missing. In the old days, all the power had to run through the driver’s master switch. To cut down on all the wiring, car makers now use data lines to communicate to the passenger windows. Here’s how it works. Each window switch has a power feed (green/red) and a ground (black). When you operate each passenger switch it toggles power to the motor via the brown/white and brown/red wires. So each window switch can operate independently WITHOUT the driver’s side MASTER switch. To control the passenger windows FROM the master switch, Isuzu passes a multiplexed data signal from the computer inside the master switch, along the RED/YELLOW wire that goes to each switch. So the passenger window switches receive that data signal and then provide power to the motor. If the driver’s master switch is LOCKED, it sends a lockout command to all the passenger switches.
Bottom line is you probably have a break in the data line RED/YELLOW wire. Most often those breaks are inside the hinged area of the driver’s door. If you can’t find the break there, you’ll have to check for continuity between the driver’s door and each window switch.
The part of this puzzle that I’m missing (and the part that’s not covered in my shop manual) is whether there’s any programming involved to tell the master switch the identity of the passenger switches or whether that identity is programmed in at the factory. But if you call an Isuzu parts department, maybe they can tell you. Or, see if each switch has a different part number. Hope that helps.
My window is all the way up. I need to get it down a little to access the screws attaching the regulator to the window. How can I do this if the motor doesn’t work to get it down a little?
Snip Snip?
Either cut the cables or remove the motor.
Rick, thanks for this great site. I love it. My wife and I just bought a 2004 Honda Odyssey with a back wing vent type window that is stuck in the open position. I see several sites where people complain of this same problem, but no one seems to know how to fix it. I’ve priced a used motor from a local salvage yard, but I’m not sure how to get the panel off to replace it. I do hear clicking when I press the switch, so I’m assuming the relay is good. Thanks for any help you can give.
This problem affects almost all Honda Odysseys. Talk to the Honda dealer before you buy new motors. They have issued a “goodwill” policy to cover a portion of the cost of these defective motors. It still may be worth your while to do it yourself. But at least find out how much Honda is willing to kick in.
Hey Rick,
Great information, and thanks in advance. I have a 2001 Lincoln Navigator. My window is stuck half way, and goes up and down maybe two to three inches in each direction. I pulled the door panel off; the motor gets extremely hot, but nothing appears to be catching. Any suggestions…?
Rick,
I have a 2005 Jeep Liberty where drivers side rear window is down and will not go up. The motor is making a noise, (louder than usual). Do you believe my problem can only be the regulator? Thank you for your help.
Rick,
I have a 2000 2 door Alero with a broke passenger window regulator. I got a new regulator but, when I took off the door panel, I found that one of the clips attached to the window is broke also. Is there anyone that sells replacement parts without replacing the window. Thanks
I’m not sure if you’re talking about the clips that hold the door trim panel to the door or parts for the window glass. But check out the Dorman web site and find a part number for your vehicle. Then try your local auto parts dealer. http://www.dormanproducts.com
It is the parts for the window glass. Thanks for the link to http://www.dormanproducts.com they showed the part # I needed. Funny, that all the different forums I looked at for info on those clips said I had to buy a new window and so did the Glass Shop I called. Thanks for the help.
Hey Rick. I have a 2002 Buick Rendezvous. I cannot figure out how to get the motor out of the door cavity. Do I have to remove the entire window with bracket/rails and all?