Rick's Free Auto Repair Advice

P0125 OBDII Trouble Code Definition Insufficient Coolant Temperature For Closed Loop Fuel Control

Rick — Fri, 19 Feb 2010 19:25:32 +0000

When you start a cold engine, the computer runs off of factory programming and ignores input from the sensors. This is called Open Loop. As the engine warms up to operating temperature, the computer switches to Closed Loop, where it computes air/fuel mixtures based on actual engine conditions.

When you get this code, it can mean you have a bad thermostat or low coolant(engine not heating up to operating temp), or a bad engine coolant temperature sensor.

See the fix here: Fix a P0125 code

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eautorepair.net

Both Alldata and Eautorepair offer professional grade shop manuals at a price you can afford. Check them out!.

Hover your mouse over the REPAIR ARTICLES tab at the top of the page. The click on DIAGNOSTICS to search by SYMPTOM, TROUBLE CODE, or read TECH TIPS on how to diagnose a problem

Click on MAKE an MODEL to see all the articles I’ve written for your vehicle
Click on REPAIR TOPICS to read individual articles written for specific automotive systems

If you’ve had your car scanned and know the trouble code go to TROUBLE CODES

Here are some quick links to speed up your research

Click on the link below for speedy navigation:

ABS issues, how to bleed ABS brakes

Airbag issues or SRS light on

Alternator issues or how to test

Belt diagram or serpentine belt issues

Blower motor

Blower motor resistor

Brakes, brake issues, what kind of brake parts to buy, ABS issues

Car Alarms or Antitheft systems

Cooling system, Water pump, What type of coolant to use

Engine flush

Firing order, cylinder layout, finding #1 cylinder

MAF or MAP sensor

Oxygen sensors, How they work, How to change, How to test

PassLock or Passkey

Thermostat issues

Transmission flush

Serpentine belt diagrams

Window issues, power window motor, replace window regulator, glass adhesive

P0125 Insufficient Coolant Temperature For Closed Loop Fuel Control

Rick — Fri, 19 Feb 2010 19:22:23 +0000

P0125 Insufficient Coolant Temperature For Closed Loop Fuel Control

You need to determine whether the engine coolant temperature sensor is telling the truth and the engine really isn’t coming up to operating temperature, or whether the sensor is bad. Many DIYers rush to replace the sensor. And yes, they do go bad. But not nearly as often as the thermostat.
So start your diagnostics by checking coolant level. If it’s low, fill it. Then, using an infra-red thermometer, check the temp around the thermostat housing. At operating temperature, it should be about 195°. If it doesn’t reach that point, you’ve got a thermostat that’s stuck open. A thermostat and gasket is cheaper than a temp sensor.

Alldatadiy.com

eautorepair.net

Both Alldata and Eautorepair offer professional grade shop manuals at a price you can afford. Check them out!.

Hover your mouse over the REPAIR ARTICLES tab at the top of the page. The click on DIAGNOSTICS to search by SYMPTOM, TROUBLE CODE, or read TECH TIPS on how to diagnose a problem

Click on MAKE an MODEL to see all the articles I’ve written for your vehicle
Click on REPAIR TOPICS to read individual articles written for specific automotive systems

If you’ve had your car scanned and know the trouble code go to TROUBLE CODES

Here are some quick links to speed up your research

Click on the link below for speedy navigation:

ABS issues, how to bleed ABS brakes

Airbag issues or SRS light on

Alternator issues or how to test

Belt diagram or serpentine belt issues

Blower motor

Blower motor resistor

Brakes, brake issues, what kind of brake parts to buy, ABS issues

Car Alarms or Antitheft systems

Cooling system, Water pump, What type of coolant to use

Engine flush

Firing order, cylinder layout, finding #1 cylinder

MAF or MAP sensor

Oxygen sensors, How they work, How to change, How to test

PassLock or Passkey

Thermostat issues

Transmission flush

Serpentine belt diagrams

Window issues, power window motor, replace window regulator, glass adhesive

Oil Life Light Reset Procedure on Buick Rendezvous

Rick — Tue, 16 Feb 2010 04:37:07 +0000

The higher end Rendezvous vehicles have a Driver Information Center (DIC) that allows you to reset the oil life system. But if your vehicle doesn’t have that and you change the oil and find that the light doesn’t go out, you’ll have to do a manual reset.

Here’s how to do it: Turn the key to ON but don’t start the engine. Press and release the accelerator pedal slowly three times. You must complete this within three seconds. Then turn the key to the OFF position. If the Change Engine Oil light comes back on, repeat the procedure until it goes out and stays out.

Alldatadiy.com

eautorepair.net

Both Alldata and Eautorepair offer professional grade shop manuals at a price you can afford. Check them out!.

Hover your mouse over the REPAIR ARTICLES tab at the top of the page. The click on DIAGNOSTICS to search by SYMPTOM, TROUBLE CODE, or read TECH TIPS on how to diagnose a problem

Click on MAKE an MODEL to see all the articles I’ve written for your vehicle
Click on REPAIR TOPICS to read individual articles written for specific automotive systems

If you’ve had your car scanned and know the trouble code go to TROUBLE CODES

Here are some quick links to speed up your research

Click on the link below for speedy navigation:

ABS issues, how to bleed ABS brakes

Airbag issues or SRS light on

Alternator issues or how to test

Belt diagram or serpentine belt issues

Blower motor

Blower motor resistor

Brakes, brake issues, what kind of brake parts to buy, ABS issues

Car Alarms or Antitheft systems

Cooling system, Water pump, What type of coolant to use

Engine flush

Firing order, cylinder layout, finding #1 cylinder

MAF or MAP sensor

Oxygen sensors, How they work, How to change, How to test

PassLock or Passkey

Thermostat issues

Transmission flush

Serpentine belt diagrams

Window issues, power window motor, replace window regulator, glass adhesive

P0480 Cooling fan Chevrolet Cobalt 2.2L

Rick — Tue, 16 Feb 2010 04:28:33 +0000

This vehicle has a 2-speed cooling fan. If you run into the P0480 code and find that the fan will only run on the highest speed, start by checking for a blown cooling fan fuse #1 in the underhood fuse block. If that’s ok, swap cooling fan relay #1 with the high speed cooling fan relay #2. Both relays have the same part number.

Rest the PCM to clear the trouble code and drive the vehicle. If the low speed relay is bad, the swap will result in a new code, P0481. That will confirm that the relay is bad. Replace the low speed relay.

However, if the P0480 returns with the relays in their swapped positions, check the wiring harness for an open condition. Check the continuity of the dark green wire from the #1 cooling fan relay to the PCM, pin #47

Alldatadiy.com

eautorepair.net

Both Alldata and Eautorepair offer professional grade shop manuals at a price you can afford. Check them out!.

Hover your mouse over the REPAIR ARTICLES tab at the top of the page. The click on DIAGNOSTICS to search by SYMPTOM, TROUBLE CODE, or read TECH TIPS on how to diagnose a problem

Click on MAKE an MODEL to see all the articles I’ve written for your vehicle
Click on REPAIR TOPICS to read individual articles written for specific automotive systems

If you’ve had your car scanned and know the trouble code go to TROUBLE CODES

Here are some quick links to speed up your research

Click on the link below for speedy navigation:

ABS issues, how to bleed ABS brakes

Airbag issues or SRS light on

Alternator issues or how to test

Belt diagram or serpentine belt issues

Blower motor

Blower motor resistor

Brakes, brake issues, what kind of brake parts to buy, ABS issues

Car Alarms or Antitheft systems

Cooling system, Water pump, What type of coolant to use

Engine flush

Firing order, cylinder layout, finding #1 cylinder

MAF or MAP sensor

Oxygen sensors, How they work, How to change, How to test

PassLock or Passkey

Thermostat issues

Transmission flush

Serpentine belt diagrams

Window issues, power window motor, replace window regulator, glass adhesive

How to buy an extended warranty

Rick — Fri, 05 Feb 2010 00:36:15 +0000

There are basically two types of extended warranties: Factory and Aftermarket. The factory warranty is only available from a dealer. But don’t confuse that to mean your SELLING dealer. If you buy a GM vehicle, for example, you can buy a genuine GM extended warranty from ANY authorized GM dealer—even on the Internet. Just make sure that you’re getting a factory warranty.

An aftermarket warranty is similar to an insurance policy. In some states, these warranties are regulated by the state’s insurance commissioner. That means they must be registered and be underwritten. If you’re buying an aftermarket warranty, you WANT one that’s underwritten. That means the warranty company has purchased and INSURANCE policy to cover your claims in the event the warranty company itself goes out of business. If you buy an extended warranty from a company that isn’t underwritten and they go out of business, you’re basically SCREWED. It happens all the time. Warranty companies open up, collect your money, pay a few claims (refuse payment on most claims) and then, when the word starts getting around that they don’t pay their claims, they fold up and disappear.

Which is better?

Almost universally, the factory extended warranty offers better coverage. But don’t assume that just because you buy a warranty from a dealer, that you’re getting a factory warranty. Car dealers can sell any warranty they want. Why would they sell you an aftermarket warranty? Simple. They make more money on them.

Since the factory warranties cover more, they also cost more. But dealers don’t like selling them because the profit margins are lower. Depending on the make, car dealers can make almost 40% profit on a factory warranty. When you consider that they sell for almost $2,000, that adds quite a bit of profit to the sale of a new car. But an aftermarket warranty can net them almost 60% profit. Which would you sell?

Understand your obligations

No warranty is going to cover your vehicle if you haven’t done your part. That means you must perform all the recommended maintenance and BE ABLE TO PROVE IT. Yes, you have to save ALL your receipts. And, you have to do each recommended service at the proper mileage or time specified in the owner’s manuals. Skip the maintenance and you risk having your entire claim denied.

How to read the fine print.

Since the warranty is like an insurance policy, you can’t just gloss over the page and assume you’re covered. The first section to read is the EXCLUSIONS: Extended warranties do not cover maintenance (oil, fluid, coolant changes, AC recharge, spark plug changes, bulbs, belts, tires, brakes, etc). They also routinely exclude squeaks and rattles (that means annoying non-specific squeaks and rattles). But if the squeak or rattle is caused by the failure of a covered component, it should be covered. Example, you’ve changed your oil religiously and the oil pump is starting to fail. You take it in for service because you hear a knocking sound. A weasel company will automatically deny the claim due to the “squeak clause.” But a real company will belly up and pay for the oil pump. See how this works? Look specifically for this deal breaker: emissions or emissions components. If you see that phrase, it means you’re not covered for any computers, sensors, or malfunctions of the fuel, ignition, or catalytic converter systems in the vehicle. And that’s where you’re liable to ring up the most repairs! If the warranty excludes those, walk away.

The next section to read is the DEFINITIONS: This one is really important. The word failure means different things to the consumer than it does to the warranty company. Since you’re bound by THEIR definition, you’d better read it upfront. Do NOT depend on the salesperson or the finance person to give you their interpretation of what the terms mean. They’ll be long gone when it’s time for you to file a claim.

Here’s what to look for:

Failure – a component can fail to perform its intended function for several reasons. It could be defective. It could be worn out from normal wear and tear. Or, it could be damaged by another component that failed. You guessed it, you want the definition to include all three. Weasel companies will define a failure as a defect only. Part wore out? So sorry. Not covered.

Fluids – I said above that no warranty will cover normal maintenance. But what if your air conditioning compressor springs a leak and all the refrigerant leaks out? They should cover the cost of the new compressor AND the new refrigerant because the refrigerant loss was due to the failure of a covered part. Get it?

Diagnostic charges – You don’t want your mechanic guessing what’s wrong with your car. Neither does your warranty company. They want it fixed right the first time. They just don’t want to pay for a proper diagnosis. A weasel company will work it this way: “We will pay for the cost of tear-down and inspection IF the failure is a covered component.” I have seen companies deny coverage for performing a computer scan. In those instances, you have wait until they discover the root cause and then fight with them over the definition of “teardown and inspection.” Is a scan a teardown? I’ve won the argument by claiming that a scan is an inspection and that a teardown to find the root cause would actually have been more expensive. But the bottom line is this: Do you even want to have this fight in the first place? Don’t buy from a weasel company.

Can they tell you where to have it fixed?

Most warranty companies go out of their way to tell you that you can take your car to any repair shop. But they also know that the dealer will be more expensive than an independent shop. So how do the weasel companies get around this? They have a clause in the policy that says they will pay the “reasonable and customary” charges. Then, when you submit the claim, they’ll tell you that the dealer’s labor charges are higher than reasonable and customary. You can counter that by conducting a survey of all dealers in your area to prove that your dealer’s charges are in-line with all the other dealers. But do you really want to spend your time that way? The warranty company cannot force you to take your vehicle to a less expensive shop unless they include that provision in their policy.

New parts? Old parts?

Here’s when things can get really hairy. Many times the dealer doesn’t sell rebuilt parts. A new alternator for a BMW from the dealer is almost $900. A rebuilt alternator for the same vehicle is $400. A used one is $150. Guess which one the warranty company wants? You can insist on a new one, but only if your warranty says that. Find out exactly what the warranty says about parts before you buy it!!

How to negotiate the price of a factory warranty.

I said earlier that factory warranties are NEGOTIABLE. No dealer will openly admit that. They insist that they cannot deal on a factory warranty.

Here’s how to haggle for a discounted price. Meet with the finance people and agree to every single item they try to sell you. Warranty, glass protection, paint sealant, etc. Then ask what the new payment will be. In the meantime, the finance person will be figuring out how they intend to spend their commission (yeah, they work on commission). When you hear the new monthly payment, freak out and tell them to take it all off–including the warranty. Then tell them you’ll buy your warranty online. They’ll tell you that those are no good. You tell them you know someone who has a really good online warranty company. Be prepared to walk out on the deal (not really). At the very end, they’ll drop the price. I’ve done this with my car, my son’s car, and my daughter’s. Works every time. After they’ve mentally spent their commission, they won’t want to let you walk out without buying it from them—even at a discounted price. Hey, car buying is a blood sport.

How to find a good aftermarket warranty

Talk to one of the service writers at a dealership. They work with the aftermarket warranty companies all day. The weasel companies take up their time and put them in the middle between the mechanic who wants to fix the problem and the warranty company that doesn’t want to pay for it. They know which companies are the goods ones, and they keep a black list of the companies that won’t pay or make life miserable. Ask them. They’ll tell you.

Alldatadiy.com

eautorepair.net

Both Alldata and Eautorepair offer professional grade shop manuals at a price you can afford. Check them out!.

Hover your mouse over the REPAIR ARTICLES tab at the top of the page. The click on DIAGNOSTICS to search by SYMPTOM, TROUBLE CODE, or read TECH TIPS on how to diagnose a problem

Click on MAKE an MODEL to see all the articles I’ve written for your vehicle
Click on REPAIR TOPICS to read individual articles written for specific automotive systems

If you’ve had your car scanned and know the trouble code go to TROUBLE CODES

Here are some quick links to speed up your research

Click on the link below for speedy navigation:

ABS issues, how to bleed ABS brakes

Airbag issues or SRS light on

Alternator issues or how to test

Belt diagram or serpentine belt issues

Blower motor

Blower motor resistor

Brakes, brake issues, what kind of brake parts to buy, ABS issues

Car Alarms or Antitheft systems

Cooling system, Water pump, What type of coolant to use

Engine flush

Firing order, cylinder layout, finding #1 cylinder

MAF or MAP sensor

Oxygen sensors, How they work, How to change, How to test

PassLock or Passkey

Thermostat issues

Transmission flush

Serpentine belt diagrams

Window issues, power window motor, replace window regulator, glass adhesive

How to Get Unstuck Without Burning up Your Transmission

Rick — Wed, 03 Feb 2010 03:22:23 +0000

How to Get Unstuck Without Burning up Your Transmission

Using the wrong “Rocking” technique can destroy your transmission.

If you’ve been taught to rock yourself out of a rut, snow, or ice by shifting from R to D, PAY ATTENTION TO THIS ARTICLE.

If you use that technique, I can just about guarantee you that you’ll destroy your transmission. Yeah, I know, you’ve done it before with no damage. Well, you were lucky. The transmissions in late model vehicles simply cannot take that kind of abuse.

Here’s how the damage happens. You put the vehicle in D and give it gas. The transmission immediately goes through the 1-2 and 2-3 shift. That means clutch packs pressurize, and bands apply. Before all the spinning parts have a chance to stop, you slam it into R. All those clutches disengage, bands move, and it shifts into reverse. The clutch material starts to overheat from being applied so quickly. Also, the high pressure needed to engage and disengage those clutches heats up the transmission fluid. Then you move it back into D and the procedure repeats. Over and over again.

By the time you’re out of the ditch, you’ve glazed the clutch disks and possibly warped the steel spacer rings. That damage is permanent and it will come back to haunt you. Maybe not right away. But within six months, your transmission will scream for mercy. And when it goes, you won’t connect its demise with that “stuck in the snow” incident from last winter.

What’s the PROPER way to rock a vehicle?

Move the shift level to LOW gear. Slowly apply the gas. The wheels will start to spin and begin to move the vehicle up the rut. Do NOT exceed 15MPH on the speedo. When you reach the maximum forward movement, take your foot OFF the gas. Let inertia roll you back into the ditch. Then give it gas again. Use the vehicle’s weight and inertia to get you out.

This procedure keeps the transmission in low gear. That locks out the 1-2 and 3-4 shift and eliminates Reverse from the equation.

If you can’t get unstuck, CALL A FREAKING TOW TRUCK. It’s a LOT cheaper than a new transmission.

Chrysler Heater A/C Control Calibration Routine

Rick — Fri, 29 Jan 2010 19:33:41 +0000

The blend and mode doors on late model Chrysler vehicles are driven by DC servo motors. If the motors get out of synchronization, the control head doesn’t know where they are. That can result in cold air when you command heat and vice versa. It can also screw up where the air blows.

Here’s how to perform a calibration routine on Caravan, Voyager, and Town and Country. It works on many other Chrysler products as well.

1. Turn Ignition switch to ON

2) Press both the POWER and RECIRCULATE buttons at the SAME time and HOLD for at least 5 seconds.

3) The POWER and RECIRCULATION lights will flash

4) Calibration should take about about 2 minutes to complete if you have heater control and about 20-seconds if you have Automatic Temp Control system.

5) If lights continue to flash AFTER 3 minutes (manual system) or 20-seconds (Auto system), the control unit has detected a failure. You need a scan tool to pull the trouble codes (Thanks Chrysler). If there’s a trouble code stored, the lights will CONTINUE to flash until the unit completes a successful calibration OR until the vehicle has driven 8 miles.

If your Chrysler vehicle doesn’t have this setup, contact me and I’ll look up the procedure for your particular vehicle.

Alldatadiy.com

eautorepair.net

Both Alldata and Eautorepair offer professional grade shop manuals at a price you can afford. Check them out!.

Hover your mouse over the REPAIR ARTICLES tab at the top of the page. The click on DIAGNOSTICS to search by SYMPTOM, TROUBLE CODE, or read TECH TIPS on how to diagnose a problem

Click on MAKE an MODEL to see all the articles I’ve written for your vehicle
Click on REPAIR TOPICS to read individual articles written for specific automotive systems

If you’ve had your car scanned and know the trouble code go to TROUBLE CODES

Here are some quick links to speed up your research

Click on the link below for speedy navigation:

ABS issues, how to bleed ABS brakes

Airbag issues or SRS light on

Alternator issues or how to test

Belt diagram or serpentine belt issues

Blower motor

Blower motor resistor

Brakes, brake issues, what kind of brake parts to buy, ABS issues

Car Alarms or Antitheft systems

Cooling system, Water pump, What type of coolant to use

Engine flush

Firing order, cylinder layout, finding #1 cylinder

MAF or MAP sensor

Oxygen sensors, How they work, How to change, How to test

PassLock or Passkey

Thermostat issues

Transmission flush

Serpentine belt diagrams

Window issues, power window motor, replace window regulator, glass adhesive

The Oil Change Oil Filter Rip Off

Rick — Thu, 28 Jan 2010 19:03:40 +0000

Most new car manufacturers recommend synthetic oil when it’s time to change your oil. That’s good advice. Synthetic oil increase oil flow on cold starts, reduces engine wear, and actually improves gas mileage (less friction means less wasted gas). The other big advantage to synthetic oil is the increase intervals between changes. Yes, it really does last longer.

But in my recent survey of oil change facilities (conducted by phone to chain and independent shops) I discovered that they do not install an extended life filter when they refill with synthetic oil.

All the major oil filter manufacturers make several different grades of oil filters. The cheapest filters use a cellulose (paper) filter media with cardboard end caps and nitrile anti-drainback valves. They are designed for a maximum life of 3,000 miles. After that point, the nitrile anti-drainback valve hardens and cracks, allowing oil to drain out of the filter. That delays oil pressure buildup on a cold start. Plus, the cardboard end caps deteriorate and allow oil to bypass around the filter media. An extended life filter, on the other hand, uses a sophisticated blend of cellulose and synthetic glass filter media. They are built with metal end caps, high quality bypass valves, and silicone anti-drainback valves that do not harden or crack.

Shops can purchase economy oil filters for as little as $1.75 each. But extended life filters cost upwards of $7, even in large quantities. Extended life filters are rated for 7,000 or more miles.

If you’re a typical consumer and you’ve chosen to refill with synthetic oil and pay the going rate of almost $80 for a professional oil change, don’t you want to ensure that the filter will go the distance? Based on my phone surveys, you’re going to get a 3,000 mile rated filter even if you pay the $80 charge for a fully synthetic oil change.

Extended life filters state right on the box what they’re rated for. As an example, the Fram XTENDEDGUARD filter is rated for a 10,000 mile service life with synthetic oil ¹. But the premium filter offered by Pureolator, the PureOne is only rated for 3,000 miles². The Mobil 1 Extended Performance Oil Filter specifically states that it is designed for “for today’s longer service intervals,” but does not give an actual mileage³. The K&N Powersports filter uses a synthetic filter media, but does not list a mileage rating. The AMSOIL Ea Synthetic Nanofiber Oil Filters (EaO) uses a synthetic filter media and is guaranteed for 25,000 miles ⁴.

Bottom line: When you pay a premium price for synthetic oil, you should be getting a premium filter. An oil filter with high efficiency synthetic filter media should be the absolute minimum they install.

1) 10,000-mile change interval under normal driving conditions using fully synthetic motor oil. Consumers should follow recommended change intervals as noted in their vehicle’s owner’s manual. FRAM Website:

2) Purolator PureONE oil filters should be replaced every 3,000 miles or 3 months depending on the driving conditions – or unless otherwise specified by the vehicle’s manufacturer. PUREOLATOR Website

3) Mobile1 website:

4) AMSOIL Ea Oil Filters are guaranteed for 25,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first, when used in conjunction with AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oil. AMSOIL recommends changing the oil filter at the time of oil change.

If used in conjunction with AMSOIL Motor Oil that is being changed at intervals less than 25,000 miles, the EaO Filter should be changed at the same time. AMSOIL EaO Filters are not guaranteed for 25,000 miles when used with any oil other than AMSOIL Motor Oil and should be changed according to vehicle OEM recommendations.

AMSOIL Website

Alldatadiy.com

eautorepair.net

Both Alldata and Eautorepair offer professional grade shop manuals at a price you can afford. Check them out!.

Hover your mouse over the REPAIR ARTICLES tab at the top of the page. The click on DIAGNOSTICS to search by SYMPTOM, TROUBLE CODE, or read TECH TIPS on how to diagnose a problem

Click on MAKE an MODEL to see all the articles I’ve written for your vehicle
Click on REPAIR TOPICS to read individual articles written for specific automotive systems

If you’ve had your car scanned and know the trouble code go to TROUBLE CODES

Here are some quick links to speed up your research

Click on the link below for speedy navigation:

ABS issues, how to bleed ABS brakes

Airbag issues or SRS light on

Alternator issues or how to test

Belt diagram or serpentine belt issues

Blower motor

Blower motor resistor

Brakes, brake issues, what kind of brake parts to buy, ABS issues

Car Alarms or Antitheft systems

Cooling system, Water pump, What type of coolant to use

Engine flush

Firing order, cylinder layout, finding #1 cylinder

MAF or MAP sensor

Oxygen sensors, How they work, How to change, How to test

PassLock or Passkey

Thermostat issues

Transmission flush

Serpentine belt diagrams

Window issues, power window motor, replace window regulator, glass adhesive

The maintenance schedule rip-off

Rick — Thu, 28 Jan 2010 16:31:47 +0000

Every car maker publishes a maintenance schedule. Many of the items on the check list are for inspections. Inspect the brakes, inspect the belts, inspect the fasteners, etc. You should have all of these maintenance items done. However, 90% of these inspections and services can be performed by a low level technician. You do not need to pay $100/hr for an ASE Certified Master Technician to check the air pressure in your tires or the condition of your CV boots. Dealers make a fortune off these maintenance checks. I don’t deny them a reasonable profit when they assign appropriately trained personnel to the task. But they don’t. They charge your the full shop rate to perform maintenance inspections that can be done by a low level tech. Since you must adhere to these maintenance schedules to maintain your factory or extended warranty, find a shop that will work with you on a much “fairer” price. Contact a local independent shop and have them quote on the same services. In most cases, they will be almost half of what the dealer charges. Save the receipts so you can prove that you’ve performed the services.

Also, refer to your owner’s manual to see exactly what the car manufacturer lists for maintenance at each major mileage guidepost. Dealers love to add in their own “recommended” services like “air induction cleaning service,” “Engine Flush” or “Evaporative emissions service.” None of these services are recommended by the car maker and some are even discouraged or prohibited. (See Engine Flush = Wallet Flush)

However there are a few services not listed by the car maker that are actually worthwhile.

Brake fluid flush—Even though the brake system is technically a sealed system, in the real world, moisture does get into the fluid. The fluid rapidly absorbs the water and it degrades your entire brake system. In addition, brake fluid contains many anti-corrosive additives that wear out over time. When that happens, it pulls copper out of the metal components. That can cause substantial damage to the system. We used to recommend a brake fluid flush every 2 years or 24,000 miles. But that was just a guess. Now they have test strips that actually tell you the condition of your brake fluid. So ask the shop to test your brake fluid with the FASCAR test strip. Based on the test results, you can determine whether it’s time to flush the brake fluid.

Power steering fluid flush. I’m not aware of any car maker that recommends this on a regular basis. But power steering fluid DOES break down. Like brake fluid, it contains additives like anti-foaming, anti-corrosive, and friction agents. If your vehicle uses transmission fluid for the power steering, it should be bright red. If it’s not and has taken on a brownish color, it’s time to flush it. Non-transmission power steering fluids are clear when new and take on a grayish appearance after circulating through the system. Grey is ok, but dark black is not. If the fluid appears very dark, flush it.

Alldatadiy.com

eautorepair.net

Both Alldata and Eautorepair offer professional grade shop manuals at a price you can afford. Check them out!.

Hover your mouse over the REPAIR ARTICLES tab at the top of the page. The click on DIAGNOSTICS to search by SYMPTOM, TROUBLE CODE, or read TECH TIPS on how to diagnose a problem

Click on MAKE an MODEL to see all the articles I’ve written for your vehicle
Click on REPAIR TOPICS to read individual articles written for specific automotive systems

If you’ve had your car scanned and know the trouble code go to TROUBLE CODES

Here are some quick links to speed up your research

Click on the link below for speedy navigation:

ABS issues, how to bleed ABS brakes

Airbag issues or SRS light on

Alternator issues or how to test

Belt diagram or serpentine belt issues

Blower motor

Blower motor resistor

Brakes, brake issues, what kind of brake parts to buy, ABS issues

Car Alarms or Antitheft systems

Cooling system, Water pump, What type of coolant to use

Engine flush

Firing order, cylinder layout, finding #1 cylinder

MAF or MAP sensor

Oxygen sensors, How they work, How to change, How to test

PassLock or Passkey

Thermostat issues

Transmission flush

Serpentine belt diagrams

Window issues, power window motor, replace window regulator, glass adhesive

The air induction cleaning rip off

Rick — Thu, 28 Jan 2010 15:58:35 +0000

Air induction system—wow, sounds pretty impressive. Well, we’re actually talking about the air cleaner box, ductwork, and the throttle body. Do they get dirty? Well, yeah. Sand and leaves get into the air cleaner box and carbon buildup can get on the throttle plate, especially if you do stop and go driving. So, at first glance this might appear to be a worthwhile service. But wait.

Cleaning the air filter box is supposed to be part of the air filter replacement service. That’s right. When they change your air filter, they’re supposed to vacuum the crud out of the air filter box. Which leaves us with throttle body cleaning.

The throttle plate controls how much air gets into the engine. When you shut off your vehicle, any vaporized gas left in the intake manifold can condense on the metal components. The heat of the engine bakes it into a black crusty buildup. And yes, sever buildup can affect how your car idles. The buildup can also gum up an idle air bypass valve. If you have a high idle, rolling or surging idle, you should have the throttle plate and idle bypass valve cleaned.

But the way to clean it is to spray the buildup with an aerosol can of throttle body cleaner. The cleaner costs about $7/ can and it takes about 1/3 of a can to clean the average throttle body buildup. Total time to perform this procedure? About 15 minutes. How much are shops charging? $59,95. At a shop rate of $100/hr, the labor should come to $25. The materials, even with a healthy markup, should only cost about $5, bringing the total to $30. So you’re getting ripped off to the tune of $30.

How to avoid getting ripped off? Just ask for throttle body and idle bypass valve cleaning instead of the “air induction service”. That’ll save you $30.

But be aware there’s a downside to this procedure. Some car makers require a throttle body “relearn” procedure after throttle body cleaning. So, if the buildup was severe enough that the vehicle’s computer had to compensate for it, removing the buildup will confuse the computer. The computer must “relearn” the new position and airflow after the cleaning. That can require the connection of a factory scan tool or a manual procedure that takes almost 30 minutes to perform. See this Nissan article as an example. The relearn procedure costs extra, even when you buy the air induction service.

Bottom line on throttle body cleaning? Do it if you’re have a racing idle or a surging idle. If it’s running find, don’t waste the money on air induction service.

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