Rick's Free Auto Repair Advice

P0405 EGR code on Chrysler Products

Rick — Sat, 04 Feb 2012 15:44:27 +0000

Many Chrysler products use EGR transducer to detect the actual movement of the EGR valve. The computer commands the EGR valve to open a certain amount. Then, the transducer measures exactly how far the valve actually opened. This transducer sensor has a very high failure rate. In most cases a P0405 EGR Sensor A Circuit Low is caused by a bad sensor. There are two way to go about this fix. You can buy a new EGR valve with sensor, or you can buy just the transducer. Buying just the transducer will save you money. Unfortunately, not many parts stores carry them. But you can give it a shot. First go here to find the transducer part number. Then call the parts store to see if they stock it. If not, go here to buy the entire EGR valve.

For more information on this repair or any others for your vehicle, buy an online subscription to either Alldatadiy.com or eautorepair.net. Click on this link to compare the two services: Compare Alldata and Eautorepair.

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Black smoke on Saturn Vue and Oulook

Rick — Fri, 20 Jan 2012 00:43:49 +0000

Black Smoke from Tailpipe

If you own a 2009-10 Saturn Outlook or VUE with the 3.6L engine, you may notice black smoke coming from the tailpipe on cold startups. Don’t flip out—it’s normal. Saturn is purposely running a rich mixture right after a cold start to get the catalytic converter operating faster. A rich mixture gooses the catalytic process. Of course, that’s exactly why misfires set off the flashing Check Engine light, to warn you that the converter is rapidly approaching meltdown. However, in this case, Saturn won’t let it get that far. It only runs the rich mixture for one minute.

Clear an airbag code

Rick — Fri, 20 Jan 2012 00:40:35 +0000

Clear an airbag code? I get asked this all the time, “Can’t I just clear the airbag code before I take it in for inspection?” The answer is no. There is no way to clear the code. When you turn the key the Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) computer does a check on the airbags. If it finds a problem, it lights the light. The system was designed so NOBODY can clear the code. Get it? The manufacturers set it up this way for liability reasons, yours AND theirs. Once the SRS light turns on, the computer keeps track of how many times you started the car with the light on. So, if you carry a passenger and that passenger gets injured because the airbag didn’t go off, you’re going to get sued for every penny you have. The injured party’s lawyer will have the computer read and they’ll present that evidence at trial that you knowingly transported a passenger with a faulty airbag system. See where this is going? And the car makers get off scot free too because they use the number of starts to proved that it was YOUR fault the airbags didn’t go off. You knew they weren’t working (can’t claim the light didn’t come on because it always comes on when you turn the key) and yet your drove with a disabled safety features. So bottom line, quit whining. Stop asking how you can “trick” the safety inspectors. Stop asking how you can bypass the system. You can’t. Just get it fixed. For more information on this repair or any others for your vehicle, buy an online subscription to either Alldatadiy.com or eautorepair.net. Click on this link to compare the two services: Compare Alldata and Eautorepair. If you just need information for a single repair and want to save money,eautorepair offers a lower price 1-week subscription for only $11.99. Or, if you’ll be working on this vehicle in the future, you can buy a 1-year subscription (Alldatadiy.com for $26.99, or eautorepair.net $29.99) © 2007 Rick Muscoplat

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Tie Rod and Front End Tools

Rick — Sun, 13 Nov 2011 21:19:31 +0000

Want to replace the inner tie rod? You need a special tool. The best set I’ve found is from Lisle tools. It’s a complete kit. Just disconnect the outer tie rod end and slide the tube and the proper insert onto the inner tie rod end. Then just use a 1/2-in. drive ratchet to unscrew it. Make sure you hold the rack with a large adjustable wrench to prevent it from damaging the pinion gear. The kit pays for itself on the first use.

Also, consider this OTC kit for disconnecting tie rod ends and ball joints. It’s a very high quality kit, unlike the Chinese junk you find on the net.

P1506 – Idle Air Control System Over speed Error

Rick — Sun, 13 Nov 2011 20:58:49 +0000

If you get this code on a Ford vehicle with the Duratec engine, don’t start with an idle air controller valve (IAC) replacement. This vehicle has a LOT of vacuum leaks and that can cause serious idle problems. Air leaks into the engine AFTER the MAF has already metered the incoming air. So the oxygen sensor sees a very lean exhaust. Since the vehicle is at idle, the computer tries to reduce incoming air by shutting down the IAC. Once it commands less air and stills sees an idle that’s too high, it sets a P1506 trouble code.

One of the common air leaks is in the rubber hose

PCV valve elbow

going to the PCV valve. The hose has a 90 degree bend in it and it tends to crack there. So START your diagnosis by replacing both the PCV AND the hose. Many readers report that Ford doesn’t stop this hose. If you can’t find it, check the link below. Since this part has such a huge failure rate, Dorman has stepped into the market with a replacement. Install the elbow, clear the code and then see if it returns.

Want more more information on this repair or any others for your vehicle, buy an online subscription to either Alldatadiy.com or eautorepair.net. Click on this link to compare the two services: Compare Alldata and Eautorepair.

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Both Alldata and Eautorepair offer professional grade shop manuals at a price you can afford. Check them out!

Won’t shift out of park

Rick — Sat, 05 Nov 2011 19:23:52 +0000

Most vehicles now come with a shift interlock device to prevent you from shifting into or out of gear without having your foot on the brake pedal. The switch is built into the brake light switch and when it determines your foot is on the pedal, it energizes a shift interlock solenoid. The solenoid pulls a locking pin out of the way so you can shift. When the system fails, it’s either the brake light switch of the solenoid. In the past you’ve had to buy the solenoid from the dealer. Now Dorman makes an aftermarket solenoid to fit

Dorman 924-705

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Both Alldata and Eautorepair offer professional grade shop manuals at a price you can afford. Check them out!

Busting rusted fasteners

Rick — Sat, 29 Oct 2011 21:36:55 +0000

How to I free up a rusted bolt? I get this question all the time. And I see a lot of bad advice online. Let’s cut right to the basics. In order to free up a rusted fastener you have to get a penetrating fluid through the rust. That’s where most people screw up. Think of rust like paint around a ceiling light fixture in your house. If you want to remove the fixture, you’ve first got to cut through the paint.

Well, some rust penetrants can find small cracks in the rust and wick their way in where they dissolve more rust. But on a heavily rusted bolt, that’ll take a long time. Here’s a tip to crack the rust. Use a hammer or an air chisel with a hammer bit (shown below). Your goal is to set up enough vibrations to just crack the rust. Then soak it with rust penetrant and repeat the vibrations. That almost always works. In fact, if you use the air chisel hammer I show below, I’ve seen screws and bolts vibrate themselves right out.

SG 91125 Air Chisel Hammer

If that doesn’t work, you’ll have to try heat. And this is another really misunderstood issue. Your goal is to shock the fastener, not destroy it. Everyone says to heat the bolt so it’s cherry red. Well, guess what? They’re wrong. You do that and you’ve destroyed the temper of the bolt and you MUST replace it. Repeat after me: The goal is to shock the bolt, not destroy it. So heat the bolt until it’s hot. Then shoot it with water to shock cool it. The expansion and contraction will break up the rust. Keep spraying until it cools. They shoot it with rust penetrant again.

Now let’s talk about rust penetrant. Everyone uses WD-40. WD-40 is a great lubricant and in some situations it can free up a rusty bolt. But it’s made as a lubricant, not a rust penetrant. So my advice is to skip the WD-40 and buy a REAL rust penetrant like Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster, or FreezeOff. Next, understand that it takes at least 15-mins for

FreezeOff

a rust penetrant to work. Remember the paint scenario above? Well, paint stripper doesn’t work immediately and neither does rust penetrant. So soak it and walk away.

Here’s another trick. Instead of always trying to loosen the bolt, try tightening it. If it moves at all, resoak it with penetrant and alternate between tightening and loosening. That’ll work the penetrant into the threads.

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Both Alldata and Eautorepair offer professional grade shop manuals at a price you can afford. Check them out!

Slipping Transmission—is it toast?

Rick — Sat, 29 Oct 2011 17:04:45 +0000

Every day I get questions from readers about their transmission behaving badly. They always want to know if a transmission fluid change will fix the problem. I’ve got news for you. If you’ve neglected your transmission to the point where the fluid is a dark brown, a fluid change will NOT fix your transmission. This isn’t even a case of “what have I got to lose by trying it.” It’s simply a total waste of money with almost NO chance of making the transmission better. In fact, adding fresh fluid to a neglected transmission has a very high chance of totally destroying it. The fresh fluid will dissolve the varnish buildup from the burned oil and that can clog up everything.

How about transmission additives?

Well, if your car is an old junker and you only need to get a few more months of driving out of it, then by all means, pour in a can of transmission fix. That stuff works by swelling the rubber seals and that can improve the shifting. But only for a little while. It’s going to fail completely—and soon.

Transmission Conditioners?

If you drive an older car and the transmission operates well, you can extend its life by adding a transmission conditioner like Lubegard, ProLong, or Lucas Transmission Fluid conditioner. If you drive a late model car that uses synthetic fluid, you won’t benefit from any of these products.

What’s the bottom line on fluid flushes?

Like I said, if you’ve neglected your transmission and the fluid is dark brown and burned, a fluid flush may make it worse. But what if you haven’t neglected your transmission? Well, dealer shop must use the proper fluid for flushing and that’s why they charge so much more than the independent shops. For example, if you drive a Ford, the Ford dealer must use Mercon V to flush your transmission. Mercon V costs about $6/quart and the shop uses almost 16 quarts. But independent shop use older and much cheaper Dexron III to do the flush. Then they add a bottle of friction modifier to change to alter the friction characteristics of Dexron III to match Mercon V. NO MANUFACTURER approves that method. Also, keep in mind that Mercon V, Dexron VI, and Chrysler ATF+4, Toyota and Honda transmission fluids are all fully synthetic. Dexrron III ISN’T. So you’re basically flushing with an inferior fluid. So what if they modified it to match the friction characteristics of the factory fluid? It’s still not synthetic. In other words, the flush is cheaper than the dealer, but you’re basically getting screwed. Always ask the shop which flushing fluid they use. If they say Dexron, don’t get your vehicle serviced their anymore. If they tell you they use the factory fluid, do the math. Sixteen quarts of synthetic fluid at a minimum of $6/quart is $100. The flush itself in an hour labor. So, if the shop is charging you $149, you’re probably NOT getting synthetic fluid. The price should be closer to $200.

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Both Alldata and Eautorepair offer professional grade shop manuals at a price you can afford. Check them out!

Stop a Head Gasket Leak

Rick — Fri, 28 Oct 2011 17:37:34 +0000

If you’re constantly topping off your coolant and can’t find any trace of an exterior leak, you may have a blown head gasket. Head gaskets can fail in many ways. First, the gasket can allow coolant to enter the crankcase. The coolant turns your oil milky-white like a milk shake and that destroys your entire engine. To check for that kind of leak, just pull the oil dipstick and examine the oil. If it looks like a milk-shake, you’ve found the problem. The second way they can leak is to allow oil to enter the cooling system. That happens because oil pressure is higher than cooling system pressure, so the oil forces its way into the coolant. To check that, yank the cap off your radiator or coolant reservoir bottle and look for an oily film floating on the top. The third way head gaskets can leak is to allow coolant into the combustion chamber where it’s burned. That’s much harder to diagnose. The coolant simply disappears in the exhaust. On the way out, it damages the oxygen sensors and can destroy the catalytic converter. Some people say you can see white smoke coming from the tail pipe. But that’s not always noticeable. It all depends on how hot the catalytic converter is at the time. The best way to diagnose a heat gasket that’s leaking coolant into the combustion chamber is to conduct a compression test and a cylinder leakdown test. You can also perform a combustion gas test.
Once you’ve determined that the head gasket is leaking, you’ve got a few choices. Replacing the gasket is going to be expensive (at least $1,000). So you may be tempted to try one of the liquid head gasket leak stoppers on the market. Well, ok, let’s talk about those.
You should know that if you want to got that route, you can
immediately forgot about using the cheap sealers (anything costing less than $35). All those sealers are incompatible with coolant. So you first have to drain the entire (and I do mean the entire) cooling system. That means radiator, heater core, and block (pulling the block plugs). Then you pour in the stuff and run the engine for the specified time. After that you have to drain the system again and leave it open to the air for 24-hours. Then you can refill with coolant. These sealers work less than 50% of the time. They’re a lot of work for such a lousy payback.
Instead I recommend Bars Leaks HG1 or CRC’s KW FiberLock sealer. These products pack a 1-2 punch. First, they contain a plug sealant that forms a “finger in the dyke” patch. Next, the temperature sensitive fibers attach to the plug material and melt to form a permanent seal. If your engine is a candidate, these products work 80-90% of the time. Just pour them directly into the radiator (not into the coolant reservoir). You may have to disconnect the upper radiator hose and siphon out some coolant to do this.
Now let’s talk about which engines are good candidates. First off, if you’ve overheated your engine and warped the head, you’re deluding yourself into thinking that a leak stopper will fix that. With a gap in the head and expansion and contraction during normal heating and cooling cycles, no sealer patch is going to stick. Of course, you’ve got very little to lose by trying either of these products. But realize up front that you’re most likely going to end up paying for a head machining and a new gasket. Now let’s talk about the real candidates. If your engine will run for at least 20 minutes without overheating or losing most of its coolant, these products are for you. In other words, you’ll be in the 80% range.
How about the more expensive head gasket sealers—the ones that cost almost $100? Well, how do you feel about being taken to the cleaners? Scammed? Played for a sucker? Get my point. You don’t need to spend that kind of money on a head gasket sealer. If a sealer will work, these two products will do the job just fine.
If the sealer stops the leak, you’re done. You do not have to add additional sealer down the road when you change coolant.

Alldatadiy.com

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Both Alldata and Eautorepair offer professional grade shop manuals at a price you can afford. Check them out!

Sensor Codes

Rick — Mon, 03 Oct 2011 01:32:05 +0000

I can’t tell you how many times forum members write in and say, “The computer said to replace the oxygen sensor. I replaced it and now it says to replace it again.” Let’s get one thing straight…..the computer NEVER says to replace a part. It only tell you what condition the sensor is reporting.

Here’s a typical example:

P0137 – Oxygen Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2)

Now most of you would say the computer has determined that the oxygen sensor is bad. That’s NOT what the code says. It merely says the circuit voltage is low. Low voltage on an oxygen sensor is almost ALWAYS caused by a vacuum leak. Why? Because as air gets into the system, the air/fuel mixture is too lean. A lean mixture produces a low voltage on the oxygen sensor. Replace this oxygen sensor without fixing the vacuum leak and you’ll get the exact same code again. Only this time, you’ll be out $80 for a sensor.

How can you tell if you should replace the sensor? Get a REAL scan tool. Then learn how to interpret short term and long term fuel trims. It’s actually very easy. Read this article on scan tools.

Alldatadiy.com

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Both Alldata and Eautorepair offer professional grade shop manuals at a price you can afford. Check them out!