Rick's Free Auto Repair Advice » Window (Power) Repair

Power Window Problems on Nissan

Rick — Sun, 27 Dec 2009 18:01:54 +0000

Customers report problems with Auto-up feature on their power windows where the feature no longer works. The problem occurs on these vehicles: 2003-07 Murano, 2003-08 350Z, 2004-08 Armada, Maxima, Quest, Titan, 2005-08 Frontier, Pathfinder, Xterra, 2007-08 Versa, Altima Sedan, Sentra, 2008 Altima Coupe, Rogues. This happens after battery terminals have been removed for any reason. The problem exists because the system has not been re-initialized.

You can re-initialize the system yourself. Follow these steps:

1. Turn the ignition switch to RUN
2. Open the window all the way.
3. Close the window all the way AND continue holding the window switch for 4 seconds after hitting the top.
4. Repeat procedure on all other windows.

For more information on this repair or any others for your vehicle, buy an online subscription to either Alldatadiy.com or eautorepair.net. Click on this link to compare the two services: Compare Alldata and Eautorepair.

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ABS issues, how to bleed ABS brakes

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Firing order, cylinder layout, finding #1 cylinder

MAF or MAP sensor

Oxygen sensors, How they work, How to change, How to test

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Transmission flush

Serpentine belt diagrams

Window issues, power window motor, replace window regulator, glass adhesive

Door locks window problems on Chevrolet Colorado and GMC Canyon pickups

Rick — Fri, 18 Dec 2009 17:17:36 +0000

GM has issued a technical service bulletin (TSB) #PIT3164B to discuss a problem with door locks and power windows on 2004-09 Chevrolet Colorado pickups and 2004-09 GMC Canyon Pickups. The problem shows up as inoperative or intermittent door locks or power window operation. In many cases, fuse #42 in the underhood fuse box may blow. GM has identified two scenarios that would blow this fuse:

1) The fuse blows when opening/closing power windows and using the door locks at the same time.

2) When closing all the windows at the same time.

Here’s what GM recommends. First, inspect the wiring harness in each door and look for chafing at the door hinge area. Repair any chafing your find. GM rerouting the wiring harness for all vehicles built after May 31, 2004.

If you don’t find any chafing, GM’s TSB tells dealers to tell customers that this is a “Design Characteristic” and that no attempts should be make to fix the problem. In other words, there is no problem. The advice is to tell the customer not to operate multiple windows at the same time and not to operate a window and a door lock at the same time. Each of these situations result in maximum current draw and will blow the fuse.

Find a new door lock actuator for your vehicle here

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Both Alldata and Eautorepair offer professional grade shop manuals at a price you can afford. Check them out!.

Hover your mouse over the REPAIR ARTICLES tab at the top of the page. The click on DIAGNOSTICS to search by SYMPTOM, TROUBLE CODE, or read TECH TIPS on how to diagnose a problem

Click on MAKE an MODEL to see all the articles I’ve written for your vehicle
Click on REPAIR TOPICS to read individual articles written for specific automotive systems

If you’ve had your car scanned and know the trouble code go to TROUBLE CODES

Here are some quick links to speed up your research

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ABS issues, how to bleed ABS brakes

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Blower motor resistor

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Engine flush

Firing order, cylinder layout, finding #1 cylinder

MAF or MAP sensor

Oxygen sensors, How they work, How to change, How to test

PassLock or Passkey

Thermostat issues

Transmission flush

Serpentine belt diagrams

Window issues, power window motor, replace window regulator, glass adhesive

Remove a door panel from any vehicle without a diagram

Rick — Mon, 26 Oct 2009 16:22:00 +0000

Removing a door trim panel may seem daunting because all the fasteners are hidden. But if you know what to look for, you can remove all the fasteners and lift the entire door panel off in less than 15 minutes—without a factory diagram.

Door Panel Primer

To reduce factory labor costs, car makers rely on snap fasteners to secure the panel in place until more sturdy screw fasteners can be installed. The snap fasteners are known as “Christmas Tree” fasteners. The head locks into a keyhole slot on the door trim panel and the barbed “limb ends” are designed to push into a pre-punched hole in the metal door. During installation, the assembler simply hooks the top of the door trim panel on the window ledge and presses the panel against the door frame. They smack the door panel with a rubber mallet to force the Christmas Tree fasteners into the holes. As the fasteners enter the holes, their “limbs” expand and hold the panel.

But car makers can’t rely on these snap fasteners alone. So once the trim panel is in place, they finish the job with screws. Why? Because drivers use the arm rest to pull the door closed. Christmas Tree fasteners cannot take that kind of daily stress. With the door panel firmly attached, they install switch assemblies (power window, power door lock, power mirror, etc.), and the window crank (manual windows). Then they cover all the screws with snap-in “vanity caps.” Their only job is to hide the screws. Now that you know how door panels are assembled, you just need to reverse the process.

Step #1 Remove the window crank (manual windows)

If you have manual windows, start by removing the window crank. Some window cranks are screwed in place. The screw is either in plain sight or hidden under a vanity cap in the center of the large circular part of the crank. If your vehicle doesn’t have a screw or hex head fastener, then it is held in place with a clip. There’s a way to remove the retaining clip with just a rag. But it doesn’t always work. The proper removal tool is cheap (less than $8 at any auto parts store) and will get you off the right start on this project.

The removal tool works by expanding the ears on a clip in a slot on the window crank. Most DIY’ers get frustrated at this point because they don’t know which way to insert the tool. The factory always installs the open end of the clip so it faces the rotating knob. If this is the first time the crank is being removed, insert the tool between the hub of the crank handle and the protective plastic disk. The protective disk simply prevents the crank arm from wearing a groove into the door trim panel. If you try to insert the removal tool between the protective disk and the door panel, it will not engage the spring clip. If you cannot disengage the clip, the window crank may have been removed by someone else and the clip may be installed backwards. In that case, insert the tool so it pushes the clip towards the rotating knob.

Hold a rag on the ejection side of the window crank to catch the clip. Trust us, it will go flying across the room if you don’t cover the edge with a rag. Then push the tool towards the center hub. You will feel the clip pop off. Then pull the window crank towards you. When you reassemble the crank handle, remember to install the clip so the open end faces the rotating knob. With the clip installed in the groove, simply press the crank assembly onto the splined shaft until the clip snaps into the shaft groove.

Step #2 Find and remove the vanity caps and the hidden screws

This step requires some detective work and a small pick. Look for any plastic pieces (round or oval) that don’t seem to serve any useful purpose. Start at the arm rest in the door pull area. There are usually screws there. If you don’t see any, look for a vanity cap. Search the door latch area as well. Check along the latch side of the door trim panel. And don’t forget to check under reflectors.

Vanity caps come in all shapes and sizes

Here’s one under the door pull area.

Don’t forget to check under reflectors and along the latch side of the door panel.

If your door panel has carpet, feel for screws hidden along the bottom edge of the carpet.

Step #3 Remove any part that will prevent you from moving the panel up

Late model cars usually have a plastic trim cap to cover the screws to the side view mirror. In this case, our 2002 Oldsmobile Alero had a tweeter installed in the trim. Some of these trim pieces are held in place with screws, but most just snap in place. Use the trim removal tool (next page) to pry the plastic trim off. Disconnect the electrical connector to the speaker.

Step #4 Remove retaining screws and trim pieces around door latch handles

Asian cars usually require you to remove the door latch handle before

Don’t forget to check under reflectors and along the latch side of the door panel.

the door trim panel can be removed. Look for a screw like the one shown in this illustration. Once you remove the screw, gently lift out the plastic latch mechanism. If it doesn’t move, DON’T force it. If probably has plastic hooks mounted on the back side. So slide the entire latch mechanism forward until the hooks disengage from the door frame. Then you can lift it out.

Once you have it loose, you will have to disconnect the latch rod from the handle. You’ll see a plastic retaining clip. Rotate the clip off the rod and lift the rod up. Do NOT lose this retaining clip. You’ll need it for reassembly.

Some Asian vehicles look like the latch in the illustration but do not have a screw. The trim bezel on these latches hide the release mechanism. Use a small flat blade screw driver to gently pry the bezel up from the to edge of the latch. Then pry down on the bottom edge of the bezel. Once it’s off, you’ll see either hidden screws or spring release latches. Remove those and the door handle will come out.

Disconnect electrical connector

Step #5 Pop the trim panel fasteners

Start at the bottom of the trim panel and insert the door panel removal tool. Pry against the metal portion of the door until you feel the fasteners pop. Move the tool towards the hinge area and repeat while holding the loose portion away from the door. Once the bottom fasteners are released, you can usually pull the door panel out and the remaining fasteners will pop out. If they don’t, you’ll need a long handled tool like the one shown below.

Step #6 Slide the door panel up and off the window sill

Remember, during assembly the factory guys put the top of the door panel on first. So it’s the last to come off. So lift the trim panel out and up. As soon as the door panel is lose, you’ll notice that it’s still connected with wires to the door switches. Do NOT pull on the trim panel or you can rip those wires right out of their sockets. Use a small flat blade screw driver to depress the release latches on each of the door switches and remove the connectors.

Remove screw from door latch

If your door trim panel has courtesy lights, the bulb sockets must be removed. They usually twist 1/4 turn and pull out. Once the door panel is completely off, move to step #7

Step #7 Account for all Christmas Tree Fasteners and re-install where necessary

It’s not uncommon for Christmas Tree fasteners to slide out of their keyhole slots in the trim panel. So locate any fasteners that are still in the door frame and remove them with the slotted removal tool. Then reinstall them in the keyhole slots in the trim panel. Straighten any bent fasteners now or buy new ones at the auto parts store.

Alldatadiy.com

eautorepair.net

Both Alldata and Eautorepair offer professional grade shop manuals at a price you can afford. Check them out!.

Hover your mouse over the REPAIR ARTICLES tab at the top of the page. The click on DIAGNOSTICS to search by SYMPTOM, TROUBLE CODE, or read TECH TIPS on how to diagnose a problem

Click on MAKE an MODEL to see all the articles I’ve written for your vehicle
Click on REPAIR TOPICS to read individual articles written for specific automotive systems

If you’ve had your car scanned and know the trouble code go to TROUBLE CODES

Here are some quick links to speed up your research

Click on the link below for speedy navigation:

ABS issues, how to bleed ABS brakes

Airbag issues or SRS light on

Alternator issues or how to test

Belt diagram or serpentine belt issues

Blower motor

Blower motor resistor

Brakes, brake issues, what kind of brake parts to buy, ABS issues

Car Alarms or Antitheft systems

Cooling system, Water pump, What type of coolant to use

Engine flush

Firing order, cylinder layout, finding #1 cylinder

MAF or MAP sensor

Oxygen sensors, How they work, How to change, How to test

PassLock or Passkey

Thermostat issues

Transmission flush

Serpentine belt diagrams

Window issues, power window motor, replace window regulator, glass adhesive

Replace a power window regulator

Rick — Sun, 25 Oct 2009 23:02:08 +0000

Replacing a broken window regulator can be a do-it-yourself project if you have a basic set of tools and the patience to mark fastener locations. This articles shows how to replace a window regulator on a 2002 Oldsmobile Alero. But other makes and models are similar. Once you understand how the system bolts together, it’s really a matter of unbolting and re-assembling in the same order.

First things first

Before you can replace a broken window regulator, you have to remove the door trim panel and the moisture barrier. See the previous article for complete instructions on how to remove those components. Next, you’ll need to test the system to confirm that the problem is in the regulator motor itself and not the master switch or the car’s wiring. The test is simple. All you need is a digital multimeter.

A power window motor only has two wires. The window switch literally toggles the power and ground on those two wires. To power the window down, the master switch provides 12 volts on one wire and ground on the other. To move the window up, it reverses the polarity. Yes, it’s that simple.

To test for power and ground, disconnect the electrical connector from the motor in question and reconnect the window switch assembly from the door trim panel to the window wiring connector. Set your multimeter to volts. Connect the red and black probes to the two wires on the connector you just removed. Then turn the ignition key to the RUN position. Toggle the window switch up and down. If the meter reading toggles between +12 volts and -12volts, the switch is good. The motor is getting power, and so the problem lies in the window regulator/motor assembly..

Power window regulator buying tip

If the motor is getting power but not operating, you may be tempted to replace just the motor. DON’T. Most often the motor fails due to excessive strain caused by broken or binding cables or friction in the window channels. Plenty of DIY’ers have tried to save money by buying just a replacement motor. Afterwards, they discover a problem elsewhere in the regulator and have to replace that as well. Save yourself a lot of headaches by buying window regulator/motor assembly.

Power window regulator warning

This guide pertains to cable operated window regulators. If your vehicle has a scissor style, you must lock the spring in place before removing the regulator. Failure to do so may result in injury. Consult a shop manual for instructions on replacing a non-cable actuated regulator.

Step #1 Remove window glass

The window glass is attached to the regulator with glued-on clips called sash guides, sash clips, or door glass attaching clips. These clips are either bolted or riveted onto the regulator. If you have rivets, you’ll have to drill them out. You can replace them with a nut and bolt on reassembly as long as you coat the threads with thread locker to prevent them from coming loose.

The best way to remove the glass is to raise it to its uppermost position and hold it in place with shipping tape. Don’t use masking tape—it won’t hold and the glass will come crashing down.

But if the regulator is broken, you might not be able to access the sash clip bolts. In that case, simply cut the cables with a side cutters. Make sure you hold the glass while you do this.

TIP: Attach shipping tape to the outside of the glass and run the tape around the top of the door and attach to the inside of the glass to hold the window up while you work on the regulator. But slip a piece of paper under the tape to prevent it from sticking to painted surfaces. That will make clean-up a lot easier and protect your paint.

TIP #2: If you have to remove the glass from the door to replace the sash clip, simply tilt the front edge (hinge side) of the glass down into the channel. Lift the left hand (jamb side) out of the window channel and raise it up. Then lift the hinge side of the glass up and out. Reverse to install.

Step #2 Remove Arm Rest Strut

You won’t be able to remove the cable tracks without first removing the arm rest strut on this 2002 Oldmobile Alero. (Other makes and models may or may not have this type of obstacle) Removing the strut will give you an opening large enough to maneuver the tracks out. So remove nuts 1, 2, & 3 and remove the strut.

Step #3 Remove the left cable track

Remove bolt #4 and loosen bolt #5. Then slide the track up and pull the upper bolt out of the keyhole. Twist the track so it’s horizontal and pull it through the opening. See photo below.

Step #4 Remove the right side track and motor

Make sure you disconnect the electrical connector from the motor. Then remove bolts #6 and #7 and loosen bolt #8. Slide the track up and pull the upper bolt out of the keyhole. Twist the track and motor so it’s horizontal and pull it through the opening.

Step #5 Check the condition of the sash clips and install new ones if broken

Some car makers have a high failure rate on their plastic sash clips. Often that’s all that’s wrong with your power window. You can replace these clips yourself. Buy replacement door glass attaching clips from www.rockauto.com. Spread an old blanket on your workbench or the trunk of your car and lay out the window to work on it.

Step #6 Remove broken sash clip and glue new one in place.

Mark each side of the broken clip with tape so you can position the new guide in the exact place. Warm the clip with a hair dryer (NOT a heat gun—you’ll crack the glass). Then break off the old clip using a sharp chisel and small hammer. Be gentle! Don’t scratch the glass or you’ll be buying a new window. If you can’t get all the old adhesive off, don’t worry. The new epoxy will bond to it. Note the position of the threaded portion of the old clip and install the new clip facing the same direction. Buy the proper epoxy adhesive (3M #08641) from an auto body supplier or the dealer, Squeeze out equal portions, mix, and apply to the inside of the sash clip. Install the clip onto the glass and wait the recommended time for it to cure before installing the glass in the door.

Dorman 38480 window sash kit

New sash guide installed on glass

Step #7 Reassemble

Reverse all the above steps to install the new regulator. Make sure you attach all nylon clips in the proper position. Spray the left and right glass channels with silicone spray or dry teflon spray lube. Lubricated channels reduce the load on the cables and regulator motor and make all the components last longer. Plug in the new motor and test the operation of the regulator before you re-install the door trim panel

Buy new window regulator here

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eautorepair.net

Both Alldata and Eautorepair offer professional grade shop manuals at a price you can afford. Check them out!.

Hover your mouse over the REPAIR ARTICLES tab at the top of the page. The click on DIAGNOSTICS to search by SYMPTOM, TROUBLE CODE, or read TECH TIPS on how to diagnose a problem

Click on MAKE an MODEL to see all the articles I’ve written for your vehicle
Click on REPAIR TOPICS to read individual articles written for specific automotive systems

If you’ve had your car scanned and know the trouble code go to TROUBLE CODES

Here are some quick links to speed up your research

Click on the link below for speedy navigation:

ABS issues, how to bleed ABS brakes

Airbag issues or SRS light on

Alternator issues or how to test

Belt diagram or serpentine belt issues

Blower motor

Blower motor resistor

Brakes, brake issues, what kind of brake parts to buy, ABS issues

Car Alarms or Antitheft systems

Cooling system, Water pump, What type of coolant to use

Engine flush

Firing order, cylinder layout, finding #1 cylinder

MAF or MAP sensor

Oxygen sensors, How they work, How to change, How to test

PassLock or Passkey

Thermostat issues

Transmission flush

Serpentine belt diagrams

Window issues, power window motor, replace window regulator, glass adhesive

All photos are protected by copyright owned by Rick Muscoplat
and may not be copied or reproduced in any way without permission from the author

Test power window motor and regulator

Rick — Fri, 23 Oct 2009 01:17:57 +0000

Before you can replace a broken window regulator, you have to remove the door trim panel and the moisture barrier. See the previous article for complete instructions on how to remove those components. Next, you’ll need to test the system to confirm that the problem is in the regulator itself and not the master switch or the car’s wiring. The test is simple. All you need is a digital multimeter.

Power window motors get their power and their ground from the master switch. The motor only has two wires. The master switch literally toggles the power and ground on those two wires. To power the window down, the master switch provides 12 volts on one wire and ground on the other. To move the window up, it reverses the polarity. Yes, it’s that simple.

Test the window regulator

Disconnect the electrical connector from the regulator motor and reconnect the window switch assembly from the door trim panel to the window wiring connector. Set your multimeter to volts. Connect the red and black probes to the two wires on the connector you just removed. Then turn the ignition key to the RUN position. Toggle the window switch up and down. If the meter reading toggles between +12 volts and -12volts, the switch is good. The problem lies in the window regulator.

Toggle the window switch and check meter to see if it switches from +12volts to -12volts

Many of you will ask, “What if the window goes down, but not up?” — or the other way around. The answer is still the same. If the voltage toggles between +12V and -12V, the problem is in the motor or regulator.

If the voltage does NOT toggle, then it can only be two things: Bad switch or broken wire. Wires break most often in the hinge area of the door.

If you need to replace the window regulator, click here for instructions.

Buy new window regulator here

Alldatadiy.com

eautorepair.net

Both Alldata and Eautorepair offer professional grade shop manuals at a price you can afford. Check them out!.

Hover your mouse over the REPAIR ARTICLES tab at the top of the page. The click on DIAGNOSTICS to search by SYMPTOM, TROUBLE CODE, or read TECH TIPS on how to diagnose a problem

Click on MAKE an MODEL to see all the articles I’ve written for your vehicle
Click on REPAIR TOPICS to read individual articles written for specific automotive systems

If you’ve had your car scanned and know the trouble code go to TROUBLE CODES

Here are some quick links to speed up your research

Click on the link below for speedy navigation:

ABS issues, how to bleed ABS brakes

Airbag issues or SRS light on

Alternator issues or how to test

Belt diagram or serpentine belt issues

Blower motor

Blower motor resistor

Brakes, brake issues, what kind of brake parts to buy, ABS issues

Car Alarms or Antitheft systems

Cooling system, Water pump, What type of coolant to use

Engine flush

Firing order, cylinder layout, finding #1 cylinder

MAF or MAP sensor

Oxygen sensors, How they work, How to change, How to test

PassLock or Passkey

Thermostat issues

Transmission flush

Serpentine belt diagrams

Window issues, power window motor, replace window regulator, glass adhesive

Accessories stop working – Caravan

Rick — Fri, 04 Sep 2009 00:54:00 +0000

Radio, power windows, blower motor not working, all at the same time. Problem may be intermittent.

Caravan owners may experience a situation where the radio, power windows, blower motor stop working all at the same time. The problem may be continuous or intermittent.

Shops are reporting that battery acid is corroding the wiring harness. The Front Control Module (FCM) then senses stray voltage (1-5 volts) and shuts down the accessory relay.

Check for corrosion or a short between these wires:

1) Yellow wire between the ignition switch and the Intelligent Power Module (IPM),

2) Yellow wire between the IPM and the transmission control module (TCM),

3) Dark Green/Orage wire between the PCM and the IPM.

You can try to clean the wiring harness, but most likely you will have to replace it.

Alldatadiy.com

eautorepair.net

Both Alldata and Eautorepair offer professional grade shop manuals at a price you can afford. Check them out!.

Hover your mouse over the REPAIR ARTICLES tab at the top of the page. The click on DIAGNOSTICS to search by SYMPTOM, TROUBLE CODE, or read TECH TIPS on how to diagnose a problem

Click on MAKE an MODEL to see all the articles I’ve written for your vehicle
Click on REPAIR TOPICS to read individual articles written for specific automotive systems

If you’ve had your car scanned and know the trouble code go to TROUBLE CODES

Here are some quick links to speed up your research

Click on the link below for speedy navigation:

ABS issues, how to bleed ABS brakes

Airbag issues or SRS light on

Alternator issues or how to test

Belt diagram or serpentine belt issues

Blower motor

Blower motor resistor

Brakes, brake issues, what kind of brake parts to buy, ABS issues

Car Alarms or Antitheft systems

Cooling system, Water pump, What type of coolant to use

Engine flush

Firing order, cylinder layout, finding #1 cylinder

MAF or MAP sensor

Oxygen sensors, How they work, How to change, How to test

PassLock or Passkey

Thermostat issues

Transmission flush

Serpentine belt diagrams

Window issues, power window motor, replace window regulator, glass adhesive

Window guide Sash guide on GM vehicles

Rick — Tue, 25 Aug 2009 15:41:13 +0000

The power window regulators on GM vehicles are failing by the zillions. But before you pony up the $$$$ for a new regulator, remove the door trim panel and check the SASH clips. They are nylon clips that are glued to the bottom of the window glass. They bolt into metal clips on the regulator. These clips fail at an alarming rate. The tell-tale signs that you have a broken clip and not a broken regulator are a creaking sound when you operate the window. Another sign is a window that will not close all the way, leaving about a 1/2-in gap at the top of window travel. If you suspect that you have a broken sash clip, go to Dormanproducts.com and enter your vehicle ID. GM calls them SASH guides but Dorman calls them Door Glass Attaching Clips. There are 2 styles used in most GM applications and the Dorman kit includes 2 of each style. The kit retails for about $12 at auto parts stores (under the HELP brand). Clips at the dealer run about $40 (so I’ve heard).

The issue is how to remove the old clips and what adhesive to use with the new ones. Keep in mind that the side window glass is tempered but NOT laminated (like the windshield). So if you scratch the glass in any way while removing the old clips, the glass will immediately shatter into a zillion pieces. I’ve used a sharpened chisel and small hammer to chip away the old plastic clip. Plus, I’ve left a bit of the old adhesive in place for the epoxy to bond to.

3M Automix Channel Bonding and Sidelite Adhesive, 2 oz Black, flexible and durable adhesive is the one to use. It’s made for for bonding moveable and stationary glass into place. Has a 4 to 5 minute worklife and drive-away time of one hour. Dispense with 3M 2 ounce Automix Applicatior Gun, part number 8191, and 3M Automix Mixing Nozzels, part number 08197.

To do this repair you will have to remove the entire window from the door. To do that, you will have to remove the door trim panel and the interior window trim. Unbolt any remaining Sash clips from the regulator and tilt the front of the glass down while you lift the rear portion up and out. Also, check the regulator. Often it looks like just the sash clip is broken. But many times the plastic guides that the regulator sash rides on breaks as well. Then you have to replace BOTH the clips and the regulator. What causes the sash clips to break? The glass sticks to the rubber strip at the top of the window channel. To avoid this damage, spray the rubber strip with silicone spray several times per year. Also, spray dry Teflon lube (available at any home center) down the window channels front and back. That will lubricate the window travel and put less stress on these cheesy plastic clips

Buy new window regulator here

Alldatadiy.com

eautorepair.net

Both Alldata and Eautorepair offer professional grade shop manuals at a price you can afford. Check them out!.

Hover your mouse over the REPAIR ARTICLES tab at the top of the page. The click on DIAGNOSTICS to search by SYMPTOM, TROUBLE CODE, or read TECH TIPS on how to diagnose a problem

Click on MAKE an MODEL to see all the articles I’ve written for your vehicle
Click on REPAIR TOPICS to read individual articles written for specific automotive systems

If you’ve had your car scanned and know the trouble code go to TROUBLE CODES

Here are some quick links to speed up your research

Click on the link below for speedy navigation:

ABS issues, how to bleed ABS brakes

Airbag issues or SRS light on

Alternator issues or how to test

Belt diagram or serpentine belt issues

Blower motor

Blower motor resistor

Brakes, brake issues, what kind of brake parts to buy, ABS issues

Car Alarms or Antitheft systems

Cooling system, Water pump, What type of coolant to use

Engine flush

Firing order, cylinder layout, finding #1 cylinder

MAF or MAP sensor

Oxygen sensors, How they work, How to change, How to test

PassLock or Passkey

Thermostat issues

Transmission flush

Serpentine belt diagrams

Window issues, power window motor, replace window regulator, glass adhesive

Glass Adhesive

Rick — Wed, 31 Dec 2008 06:13:00 +0000

Several blog readers have asked what adhesive to use when the door glass separates from the tabs holding it to the sill. Forget about super glue. This is the stuff you need. It’s a 2-part epoxy made by 3M. They sell a special dispenser gun that delivers equal parts through a mixing nozzle. But you can push out equal quantities of both and mix them by hand.

3M Automix Channel Bonding and Sidelite Adhesive, 2 oz Black, flexible and durable adhesive used for bonding moveable and stationary glass into place. Has a 4 to 5 minute worklife and drive-away time of one hour. Dispense with 3M 2 ounce Automix Applicatior Gun, part number 8191, and 3M Automix Mixing Nozzles, part number 08197.

Buy a new window regulator here

Alldatadiy.com

eautorepair.net

Both Alldata and Eautorepair offer professional grade shop manuals at a price you can afford. Check them out!.

Hover your mouse over the REPAIR ARTICLES tab at the top of the page. The click on DIAGNOSTICS to search by SYMPTOM, TROUBLE CODE, or read TECH TIPS on how to diagnose a problem

Click on MAKE an MODEL to see all the articles I’ve written for your vehicle
Click on REPAIR TOPICS to read individual articles written for specific automotive systems

If you’ve had your car scanned and know the trouble code go to TROUBLE CODES

Here are some quick links to speed up your research

Click on the link below for speedy navigation:

ABS issues, how to bleed ABS brakes

Airbag issues or SRS light on

Alternator issues or how to test

Belt diagram or serpentine belt issues

Blower motor

Blower motor resistor

Brakes, brake issues, what kind of brake parts to buy, ABS issues

Car Alarms or Antitheft systems

Cooling system, Water pump, What type of coolant to use

Engine flush

Firing order, cylinder layout, finding #1 cylinder

MAF or MAP sensor

Oxygen sensors, How they work, How to change, How to test

PassLock or Passkey

Thermostat issues

Transmission flush

Serpentine belt diagrams

Window issues, power window motor, replace window regulator, glass adhesive

Rear Wiper Inoperative/Dead Battery—Expedition-Navigator

Rick — Tue, 20 May 2008 00:28:00 +0000

Owners of 2003-07 Ford Expeditions and Lincoln Navigators may experience a dead battery along with a balky rear wiper. The problem is covered by TSB #07-10-13 and can be diagnosed with the following procedure:

Pop the rear window open to make sure the wiper mechanism is disengaged from the motor drive plate. Next, open the beauty cover over the wiper arm attaching nut. Then, connect a dial torque wrench to the nut and rotate the wiper arm across the entire length of travel, keeping the blade touching the glass the entire time. Keep the window open during this test.

The torque measurement must not exceed 49 INCH pounds. If you discover that it is greater than this amount, replace the rear window striker/wiper pivot shaft assembly.

Corrosion on the wiper pivot shaft assembly causes excess torque and prevents the wiper arm from returning to the park position. The wiper system continues to attempt a park maneuver periodically and those continued attempts drain the battery.

The torque measurement must not exceed 49 INCH pounds. If you discover that it is greater than this amount, replace the rear window striker/wiper pivot shaft assembly.

Alldatadiy.com

eautorepair.net

Both Alldata and Eautorepair offer professional grade shop manuals at a price you can afford. Check them out!.

Hover your mouse over the REPAIR ARTICLES tab at the top of the page. The click on DIAGNOSTICS to search by SYMPTOM, TROUBLE CODE, or read TECH TIPS on how to diagnose a problem

Click on MAKE an MODEL to see all the articles I’ve written for your vehicle
Click on REPAIR TOPICS to read individual articles written for specific automotive systems

If you’ve had your car scanned and know the trouble code go to TROUBLE CODES

Here are some quick links to speed up your research

Click on the link below for speedy navigation:

ABS issues, how to bleed ABS brakes

Airbag issues or SRS light on

Alternator issues or how to test

Belt diagram or serpentine belt issues

Blower motor

Blower motor resistor

Brakes, brake issues, what kind of brake parts to buy, ABS issues

Car Alarms or Antitheft systems

Cooling system, Water pump, What type of coolant to use

Engine flush

Firing order, cylinder layout, finding #1 cylinder

MAF or MAP sensor

Oxygen sensors, How they work, How to change, How to test

PassLock or Passkey

Thermostat issues

Transmission flush

Serpentine belt diagrams

Window issues, power window motor, replace window regulator, glass adhesive

Replace a power window motor & regulator

Rick — Sun, 07 Oct 2007 18:03:00 +0000

Manufacturers have redesigned power window mechanisms and you’re paying the price for it. The new mechanisms, known as window regulators, are lightweight and flimsy. They raise and lower the window with cables that often bind or break. If the window channels aren’t lubricated (use silicone or dry Teflon spray), the friction overloads the motors and they burn out or strip the “spool” that winds the cables.

Rather than pay a shop $350 to replace the regulator, do it yourself. Knowing where the hidden fasteners are will save a LOT of wasted time and frustration. (Be a sport and buy a subscription to either the manufacturer’s online manual or Alldata—after all, you’re saving several hundred dollars by doing it yourself).

Next, go to www.rockauto.com. There are a few other companies making aftermarket window regulators. I have no experience with those other companies, so I can’t vouch for their quality.

The only special tool you’ll need is a trim panel remover tool (about $5 at any auto parts store). Start by removing the visible screws. Then pop off any plastic “vanity” caps that appear to serve no useful purpose. You’ll find they’re covering screws. Almost every car I’ve ever worked on has screws or bolts holding the arm rest to a bracket. Once again, look for plastic “vanity” covers if you can’t find those fasteners. (See the photo)

Once the screws are out, start at the lower portion of the trim panel and begin popping out the plastic “Christmas tree” fasteners. They’re usually located along the perimeter of the door. (See photo)

Lift the trim panel up and off the door.
Then disconnect the electrical connectors
to the window and door lock switches. (See photo) With the trim panel now removed, peel off the vapor barrier. (It has to go back on, so be careful while removing it)

Take a look at the photo of the window regulator I shot from the outside (Yes, I DID cut a hole in a door just so you can see what you’re dealing with.
It was a junkyard door so don’t freak out on me. That’s also why it’s so dirty. If you want me to shoot pictures of clean doors, simply mail me a check for $145 and I’ll spray some Windex on it next time. In the meantime, you’re getting this for free, so quit complaining)

Power window
You can see that the regulator is really a very simple mechanism. The window sill gets pulled up and down by the cable. Your next step is to remove the window glass. To do that, you’ll need to move the sill down so you can reach it with your sockets. Remember, you’re doing this from the inside (unless you too want to cut a hole in your door). Can’t get the window into position so you can remove the glass? Reach around the regulator track from the inside and cut one of the cables with a wire cutter. BUT MAKE SURE you’ve got someone holding the glass! Then lower the glass, remove the bolts and pull the glass up and out. The glass pulls out by tilting it towards the outside of the door.

Next, disconnect the electrical connector from the motor. Then you can remove the fasteners holding the regulator in place. Tip the regulator and feed it out through a hole in the door panel. If you can’t get it out and you haven’t already snipped a cable, do that now. That will allow you to move the sill up or down.

Here’s a tip: The inside of your door contains sharp metal edges. WEAR LEATHER GLOVES!

All these instructions are for cable regulators. If you have an older vehicle with a scissors style regulator, you can fix those too. BUT heed this warning. Scissors style regulators usually have a coiled assist spring—like a clockspring. You must secure this spring before you remove the motor. Skip this step and your next move may be to the ER for a broken finger! The easiest way to secure the spring is to drill a hold in the regulator and insert a nut and bolt through the spring to clamp it down.

Dorman sells replacement motors. But if you have a cable regulator, you may find that the old motor is riveted in place. If you want to spend the time to drill out those rivets, be my guest. But once you remove the motor, you may find a stripped cable spool. That’s why I recommend replacing the entire regulator. That, plus the fact that Dorman has fixed the problems that plague the OEM models.

Reverse the entire procedure to reinstall.

Not sure if the problem is in the regulator? Here’s how to check. Window motors only have two wires going to them. The window switch alternates the power and ground connections to power the motor up and down. So, attach the positive and negative probes of your digital volt meter to the electrical connector going to the motor. Then flip the window switch in both directions. You should see the voltage change from +12 volts to -12 volts. If you see that, it means the motor is getting power from the switches. Switches good. Motor bad.

Hope this saves you hundreds of dollars. Good luck!

Buy a new window regulator here

UPDATE!!!!

Do NOT under any circumstances insert a larger fuse–unless you like your vehicle on the well done side. That’s a great way to start a fire! If the motor is drawing too much power, it would have already blown the existing fuse. (Don’t ever let your friend do any electrical work on your house, car, or tree house)

If the new regulator isn’t operating smoothly, either there’s an obstruction in the track, or the regulator is not aligned properly. To eliminate the track as a possibility, run a flat blade screwdriver down each side channel to clear out any debris. Then spray each channel with either spray silicone or dry teflon lube (it’s actually a spray that dries).

Has the window glass ever been broken? If so, small glass shards get stuck in the channels and screw up the movement.

Once you’re convinced that the channels are clean and lubricated, you’ll have to try a few adjustments on the regulator. GM leaves some play in the mounting holes. So try tilting the entire regulator assembly forward or backwards a bit to see if it helps.

Just for everyone’s benefit, the window regulator is a HUGE problem (and I mean HUGE) on GM and Chrysler vehicles. In fact, this article on regulator replacement is the most popular on this entire blog. I get more mail on this topic than any other.

I went to the APEX/SEMA show (Automotive Parts Exposition) in Las Vegas in ’97 and counted at least 10 companies offering aftermarket window regulators. When you see that many companies jumping into the regulator business, it’s an indication that it’s a huge market.

The older gear driven regulators rarely failed. Sure, the motors would burn out, but the mechanism was solid. Then Chrysler came up with their brilliant plastic “window tape,” that had sprockets like 8mm movie film. The motor gear engaged the sprockets and pushed the tape up or down a channel that was attached to the glass. Needless to say, the window tape was a disaster. Now we’ve got the cable driven systems and they’re even worse.

Bottom line: The OEM cable driven assemblies are poorly designed and poorly built.

Alldatadiy.com

eautorepair.net

Both Alldata and Eautorepair offer professional grade shop manuals at a price you can afford. Check them out!.

Hover your mouse over the REPAIR ARTICLES tab at the top of the page. The click on DIAGNOSTICS to search by SYMPTOM, TROUBLE CODE, or read TECH TIPS on how to diagnose a problem

Click on MAKE an MODEL to see all the articles I’ve written for your vehicle
Click on REPAIR TOPICS to read individual articles written for specific automotive systems

If you’ve had your car scanned and know the trouble code go to TROUBLE CODES

Here are some quick links to speed up your research

Click on the link below for speedy navigation:

ABS issues, how to bleed ABS brakes

Airbag issues or SRS light on

Alternator issues or how to test

Belt diagram or serpentine belt issues

Blower motor

Blower motor resistor

Brakes, brake issues, what kind of brake parts to buy, ABS issues

Car Alarms or Antitheft systems

Cooling system, Water pump, What type of coolant to use