Rick's Free Auto Repair Advice » Brakes

Subaru ABS unit runs all the time

Rick — Sat, 10 Sep 2011 20:56:41 +0000

Some Subaru report that the ABS hydraulic motor runs all the time. Subaru issued a TSB 06-28-96 to address the issue. The TSB covers refers to Subaru SVX, Impreza, and Subaru Legacy vehicles. The identified problem refers to ABS hydraulic motors that run or buzz even when the key is turned to the off position or when the ABS warning light comes on and a trouble code 52 is stored in memory.

Subaru has released a modified Hydraulic Motor Relay. The part number is 26735AA012. The new unit carries a white line right under the word JAPAN on the relay case.

For more information on this repair or any others for your vehicle, buy an online subscription to either Alldatadiy.com or eautorepair.net. Click on this link to compare the two services: Compare Alldata and Eautorepair.

If you just need information for a single repair and want to save money,eautorepair offers a lower price 1-week subscription for only $11.99. Or, if you’ll be working on this vehicle in the future, you can buy a 1-year subscription (Alldatadiy.com for $26.99, or eautorepair.net $29.99)

Alldatadiy.com

eautorepair.net

Both Alldata and Eautorepair offer professional grade shop manuals at a price you can afford. Check them out!

Code readers and scan tools

Rick — Mon, 05 Sep 2011 17:02:15 +0000

If you wanted to do your own car repairs in the “old days” you need specialized tools. You had to own a timing light and a distributor wrench at the very minimum. For diagnostic tools you needed a tach/dwell meter. In others words, you had to put some “skin” in the game if you wanted to save shop labor.

Today, I hear DIYers whine every time their check engine light goes off and they have to get the codes scanned. My take on this is “GROW UP!!” If you want to do your own car repairs, you need a basic set of tools. And today, that means you have to own either a code reader or a scan tool. Don’t want to make the investment? Fine, then take it to a shop and pay them $100 a pop to hook up their scan tool.

Have I convinced you to buy your own scan tool yet? If so, let’s take a look at the offerings. Rather than review tools from every manufacturer, I’ll give you my bias right up front. SPX is a major tool manufacturer. They’ve been making specialty tools for most (GM and FORD all specify SPX’s tools) car makers for decades. When electronics came into play, Owatonna Tool Company (OTC) was the first to build scan tools for independent shops. OTC is owned by SPX. Next, SPX bought Actron, which used to be known as KalEquip (they made my tach/dwell meter back in the ‘60’s). They also bought AutoXRay. What I’m getting at is that SPX not only has direct connections to the car makers, but they own the top scan tool companies in the world. That’s why I tell readers to buy their tools.

What’s the difference between a code reader and a scan tool?

A code reader just reads the trouble code. That’s it. They’re cheap (less than $50), but they don’t do much for you. Once you get the code, you’re one step closer to solving the problem, but you’re still missing a LOT of critical information. If you’re a real cheapskate and only want to buy a code reader, here’s what to look for.

The cheapest code readers don’t have batteries. That means you can scan for the code and read the trouble code only as long as it’s plugged into the computer. Once you have the code, you’ll have to go to your home computer to look up the code definition. What a pain. But then again, you are a cheapskate. Oh, by the way, once you unplug it, the information is gone. So you’d better bring a pen and paper with you. But if you spend a bit more, the code reader will have a battery that maintains the code information in memory. Dig a little deeper and you’ll get a code reader with a back-lit screen. Dig deeper still and you’ll get a code reader that’ll spit out the code definitions right on the screen. And many of those higher end readers are update-able (as manufacturers develop new codes).

Or, get a real diagnostic tool

Let’s not kid each other—a code reader is a toy. Sure, it’ll give you the code, but that’s it. If you’re like most DIY’ers, you’ll get the code definition and replace every part mentioned in the trouble code. So if the code says oxygen sensor lean, you’ll replace the oxygen sensor. The parts manufacturer’s love people like you. Every year tens of thousands of perfectly good 02 sensors are replaced just because the trouble code contained the words oxygen sensor. Engine computers are smart, but they’re not that smart. They may tell you that the oxygen sensor is reporting a lean condition. You assume that means the sensor is bad. Most often it’s telling the truth, the exhaust stream really IS lean. What would cause that? Yup, a vacuum leak. But you won’t get to that point until you’re replaced an $80 sensor and wind up with another check engine light. How to get around that? Buy a scan tool that gives you live data and then learn how to interpret the data.

Here’s how live data helps you

When an engine computer sees a lean condition in the exhaust, the first thing it does is add more fuel to the mixture. This is called Fuel Trim. The computer tracks how much fuel it adds or subtracts. It can add or subtract up to 25%. So, if you’re seeing a lean or rich trouble code, the first thing you should do is look at the live fuel trim data. If the computer is adding fuel, that’s an indication of a vacuum leak. If it’s subtracting fuel, that’s an indication of a leaking fuel injector or a fuel pressure problem. Do you see where this is going? A scan tool gives you the data to actually diagnose the problem. THAT’s why you should pony up the money and buy a scan tool with live data. Yes, they’re expensive. But trust me, you’ll waste far more than that by replacing perfectly good parts because you were too cheap to buy a real diagnostic tool in the first place. Let’s see, you replaced both O2 sensors ($160) and the check engine light is still on. And the root problem was caused by a .25 vacuum hose? You could have owned a scan tool for close to that same money.

Buying Tips

I’m listing many models of Actron and AutoXray tools here. Do not buy them based on price. Read their specs and MAKE SURE the one you like actually works with your vehicle. Many of the less expensive scan tools do NOT read manufacturer-specific codes–especially on European vehicles. You’ll have to spend upwards of $300-$500 to get that capability. Finally, none of these inexpensive tools will read ABS, AIRBAG, Chassis, or Universal codes. To get that capability, you’ll have to spend about $2,000. Want that? Great. Buy an OTC Genisys scan tool.

Alldatadiy.com

eautorepair.net

Both Alldata and Eautorepair offer professional grade shop manuals at a price you can afford. Check them out!.

A/C doesn’t work and ABS light on

Rick — Thu, 01 Sep 2011 17:53:39 +0000

GM vehicles are known for faulty ignition switches. The problems are almost always intermittent. One common symptom is for the A/C to start blowing warm air or for the blower fan to stop (depending on which GM model we’re talking about), along with an ABS light. The problem is usually the ignition switch heating up and not providing power to the A/C clutch and the ABS computer. If you want to diagnose the problem, buy a wiring diagram for your vehicle form eautorepair.net or alldata.com (there are way to many GM models to list their wiring diagrams here) and test for power at the switched terminals when the problem happens. Or, just replace the ignition switch.

Alldatadiy.com

eautorepair.net

Both Alldata and Eautorepair offer professional grade shop manuals at a price you can afford. Check them out!.

Anti lock ABS brake repairs

Rick — Sun, 28 Aug 2011 18:05:09 +0000

All car makers are experiencing problems with ABS wheel and speed sensors and wiring harnesses. The harsh conditions along with continued up/down and right/left motion contributes to broken and frayed wires. That will light up the ABS light. You can replace the wiring harness with a factory unit or a Dorman Products replacement. However, if you decide to repair the broken wire, you MUST solder it. Do NOT use a crimp connector. The signals running through these wires is low voltage and ANY signal loss or voltage drop across a crimp connector is enough to give a complete signal loss.

So clean all wires in the splice and use a quality electronics solder. Then cover the splice with shrink tubing or 3M Electrical Moisture Sealant Tape. The 3M tape is literally a thick coating of adhesive. Slice off a piece and wrap it around the splice. The thick adhesive sticks to itself and seals out all moisture. It’s much better than traditional electrician’s tape.

Alldatadiy.com

eautorepair.net

Both Alldata and Eautorepair offer professional grade shop manuals at a price you can afford. Check them out!.

Rear Brakes – Uneven brake pad wear, noise, on vehicles with rear disk brakes

Rick — Sun, 28 Aug 2011 17:43:19 +0000

Rear disk brakes are exposed to the same road debris, salt, snow, rain, and heat as front brakes. But because they do only 20% of the braking, they don’t get worn as quickly. That leaves them especially vulnerable to the elements. Since the pads don’t wear as quickly, the caliper doesn’t slide on the caliper pins nearly as far, so caliper pin rusting is far more common. This is especially true in 2000-06 Chevrolet Silverado, Avalanche, and Suburban 1500 trucks.

Every time a caliper slides on the pins, air is either expelled or sucked in. Some manufacturers install a rubber cup over the air breathing hole to allow air to flow but keep out water and road debris. In the Chevrolet design, GM drilled pin holes in the bracket and covered them with rubber bushings. Unfortunately, those rubber bushing aren’t doing the job and the rear caliper pins are rusting and seizing in the bracket. When that happens, the caliper can’t slide and applies braking pressure to only the inboard pad. The result is uneven braking, noise, vibration, and loss of stopping power.

Even though this is a problem on GM trucks, it can happen to any vehicle. I’ve seen caliper pins so frozen in the bracket that the only option is to replace the entire mounting bracket. In fact, this is happening so often that rebuilders are now selling rebuilt brackets

Buy a rebuilt caliper bracket to correct rusted and seized caliper pins

so you don’t have to buy a complete caliper.

One way to avoid this problem is to service the rear calipers about once a year. Retract the rear caliper piston slightly with a special tool (see below). Then remove the caliper. Grease the slide pins with Permatex synthetic brake grease and reinsert the caliper pins. Also apply the grease to the abutment areas where the pads slide

Alldatadiy.com

eautorepair.net

Both Alldata and Eautorepair offer professional grade shop manuals at a price you can afford. Check them out!.

Uneven brake wear, vibration, and noise on Ford Forcus 2008-11,

Rick — Sun, 28 Aug 2011 16:34:10 +0000

Some Ford Focus owners are reporting uneven brake wear after performing a brake job or having it done at a shop. The problem can be caused by improper installation of the brake pads. While the pads look alike, there is a definite inboard and outboard pad. They cannot be swapped. The pads have a wear sensor and special “nibs” that hold the shim in place.

The pad with the wear sensor must be placed on the inboard side of the caliper (next to the piston). If it is placed in the outboard position, the nibs will press against the caliper housing and “cock” the pad slightly. The caliper’s clamping force will be applied to the nibs rather than the entire backing plate. This will cause uneven wear, vibration, and other noise.

If you’re doing your own brake job, always make sure you install new abutment clips and lubricate the caliper pins and hardware with a high temperature synthetic brake grease

Alldatadiy.com

eautorepair.net

Both Alldata and Eautorepair offer professional grade shop manuals at a price you can afford. Check them out!.

Check Engine Light is On

Rick — Mon, 04 Jul 2011 21:18:36 +0000

I volunteer in many different automotive forums and I constantly see people ask what could be the cause of a Check Engine light. The current system that’s in place to monitor engine performance and emissions is called On-Board Diagnostics version II (OBDII). The system is capable of setting up to 1,800 different trouble codes. That doesn’t even include manufacturer-specific codes that can be used to tell if there’s a problem with a body control computer or chassis system. With 1,800 possibilities, there’s simply no way anybody can get any kind of answer when they ask, “Why did my Check Engine light come on?”

The ONLY way to start the diagnostics to find out why the check engine light came on is to plug in a code reading tool and poll the computer. Once a trouble code sets and lights the light, that code is stored in computer memory. The code reader or scan tool (there’s a difference between the two) polls the computer memory and pulls up the trouble code. Some units decipher the code and tell you what it means in plain English, while others just pop up the code.

Once you have the code, you can do two things: 1) Fix the problem, or 2) Clear the code. Now, I get asked a lot “How to I clear the code or turn off the light.” I’ve got news for you, you’re not fooling anybody if you think you can turn off the light and then take your car or truck in for an emissions inspection. Because the computer will tell the inspector that you’ve just cleared the codes. The inspector will tell you to come back and have the car checked again after the computer has reset its readiness monitors. (See drive cycles to understand what you have to do after clearing codes to be able to take and emissions test).

And, you CANNOT reset ABS or SRS (airbag) lights. You have to fix the problem.

Finally, be aware that the computer tracks how many times you’ve started the car with the Check Engine light on. So, if you’re under warranty or driving a leased vehicle and think that you can dodge the charges for engine damage by claiming that the “light just came on,” think again. They can tell when the light first came on.

How to check codes

1) Take it to an auto parts store that checks codes for free. Most major retail auto parts stores (like Autozone, Advance Auto, O’Reilly) will scan your computer for free. But beware, their parts guys are NOT technicians. So if the trouble code translates into “Oxygen sensor lean,” I guarantee you the parts guy will sell you a new oxygen sensor. Do you need one? Well, what if the exhaust stream really IS lean and the oxygen sensor is telling the truth? $80 down the drain. Remember, parts stores are in business to sell parts. Don’t rely on them to diagnose problems.

2) Buy your own code reader or scan tool
In the early days of OBDII, code readers and scan tools cost a fortune and only professional technicians could afford them. But today you can buy a code reader for $40. All right, I can hear you whining. But before you go into a full pity-party, remember that “in the old days” we had to buy special tools to work on cars. Remember tach/dwell meters for setting “points” in the distributor? Or that timing light you had to use to set timing? How about those distributor wrenches that you only used once every 3 years? So get over it—you’re going to have to spend money on a new tool.

What’s the difference between a code reader and a scan tool?

A code reader reads codes—period. It doesn’t tap into the vehicle’s computer to display “live data.” Knowing the code if helpful, but it’s just a start towards diagnosing the root cause. The majority of Do It Yourselfers who buy code readers end up guessing at the problem and replace a LOT of parts unnecessarily. So you saved yourself a bunch of money on the code reader only to throw far more money into parts you didn’t need.

A scan tool, on the other hand, displays the same data that the computer receives from it’s sensors. If we follow the oxygen sensor example from above, the first thing I’d check in live data is the value for “Short-term Fuel Trim.” When the computer sees a lean condition, it figures it calculated the wrong air/fuel mixture. To correct the problem, it adds more fuel. That additional fuel is referred to as Fuel Trim and the value runs from 0 to 25%. So, in this case, if I were to see a fuel trim of 25% along with an oxygen sensor “lean” code, I would know that I had a huge vacuum leak. In other words, too much air is getting into the engine, the computer is trying to compensate for it and it has max’ed out it’s ability to correct it, and the oxygen sensor is still seeing a lean condition. Remember I told you a parts guy would sell you an oxygen sensor? Well, in this case, I’d be looking for a broken vacuum hose or a bad intake manifold gasket. There, you just save almost enough money on this single repair to justify owning a scan tool.

What else can you read on a scan tool?

Engine RPM, engine coolant temperature, radiator fan operation, transmission operation, barometric pressure, MAF, MAP, VSS, TPS sensor values –getting the picture? You can literally “look” into the computer and get the data.

So buy a scan tool and read up on how to use it and interpret the values.

I’ve listed some of the more popular models of code readers and scan tools below. But read the fine print on the model you want to buy. MAKE SURE IT WORKS ON YOUR VEHICLE. Also, these inexpensive scan tools only pull “P” codes. They will not read ABS, Airbag, or other manufacturer-specific codes. If you want to read all those codes, you’ll need to pony up about $4,000 for a professional model with all the software.

Alldatadiy.com

eautorepair.net

Both Alldata and Eautorepair offer professional grade shop manuals at a price you can afford. Check them out!.

ABS light on GM vehicles

Rick — Fri, 16 Apr 2010 17:17:57 +0000

GM has issued a TSB #04-05-025-002A covering the following vehicles:
2004 Buick Rainier
2002-04 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT
2003-04 Chevrolet Silverado
2000-04 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe
2003-04 Chevrolet Avalanche, Trailblazer
2003-04 Chevrolet SSR
1999-04 GMC Sierra
2000-04 GMC Yukon, Yukon Denali, Yukon XL
2002-04 GMC Envoy
2004 GMC Envoy XUV
2002-2004 Oldsmobile Bravada

The problem shows up as a glowing ABS light and trouble coded C0265, C0201, U1041 and a loss of communication with the brake module (EBCM). The TSB warns dealers NOT to replace the EBCM. The problem is a bad ground. Refer to a wiring diagram to find the grounding location for your vehicle. Then clean the ground area and spray it with rubberized undercoating.

For midsized utility vehicles, find the location of ground #304
For Chevrolet SSR, find the location for ground #400
For full-size trucks and utilities, find the location for ground #110

Alldatadiy.com

eautorepair.net

Both Alldata and Eautorepair offer professional grade shop manuals at a price you can afford. Check them out!.

Hover your mouse over the REPAIR ARTICLES tab at the top of the page. The click on DIAGNOSTICS to search by SYMPTOM, TROUBLE CODE, or read TECH TIPS on how to diagnose a problem

ABS and TRAC OFF lights on GM vehicles

Rick — Sun, 27 Dec 2009 02:39:30 +0000

Shops are reporting huge failure rates on ABS sensors in some late model GM vehicles where the ABS sensor is integrated with the wheel bearing/hub. These sensors are in two styles. One style bolts the sensor directly on the wheel bearing. The sensor counts the notches on the ABS tone ring inside the wheel bearing. The clearance between the sensor and the tone ring is critical. The problem occurs when rust builds up between the sensor and the wheel bearing. This phenomenon is called “rust jacking,” where the rust literally pushes the sensor upwards, increasing the gap between the sensor and the tone ring to the point where it reads intermittently. If you have this style sensor, remove it and lightly sand the rust (lightly being the key word). Then apply a light coat of marine grease on the bare metal and re-assemble. You may want to try applying a thin bead of RTV silicone around the outer edge to prevent water from getting under the sensor.

The second and more common style has the ABS sensor built into the bearing/hub. This unit CANNOT be serviced. You must replace the entire bearing/hub.

Buy a new wheel bearing with new ABS sensor already installed here

When either type of sensor goes on the fritz, it lights up the ABS light AND turns off the Traction Control System. That’s because the traction control system gets all its information from the ABS computer. No input means a shutdown of the entire system. Plus, this will set a code in the PCM.

Get a new Timken wheel bearing with hub and ABS sensor for these vehicles

CHEVROLET CLASSIC (2004 – 2005)
CHEVROLET MALIBU (1997 – 2003)
OLDSMOBILE ALERO (1999 – 2004)
OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS (1997 – 1999)
OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS GLS 1997
OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS SUPREME 1997
OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS SUPREME SL 1997
PONTIAC GRAND AM (1999 – 2004)
PONTIAC GRAND AM GT 2005
PONTIAC GRAND AM GT1 2005
PONTIAC GRAND AM SE 2005

GM is also having a huge failure rate on the wiring harness that goes from the ABS computer to the sensors. The harness can short to ground. Because the harness must flex with each movement of the lower control arm, the harness can also develop an open condition where the ABS signals never reach the ABS computer. This is such a large problem that aftermarket supplier Dorman now makes replacement wiring harnesses for about half the price of the GM version.

Get an aftermarket ABS Wiring Harness for the front left sensor on these vehicles.

2005-97 Chevrolet Malibu;
1998-97 Oldsmobile Achieva;
2003-99 Oldsmobile Alero;
2005-99 Pontiac Grand Am
Dorman Part #970-008

Get an aftermarket ABS Wiring Harness for the front right sensor on these vehicles.

2005-97 Chevrolet Malibu;
1998-97 Oldsmobile Achieva;
2003-99 Oldsmobile Alero;
2005-99 Pontiac Grand Am
Dorman Part #970-009

If you have an ABS and TRAC OFF light and want to troubleshoot the system, start by examining the connectors at each front wheel bearing. You may find that the entire connector has broken off the bearing is just hanging in mid-air. If the wiring at the sensor appears good, disconnect it. Then disconnect the main connector at the ABS computer (usually located on the driver’s side—just follow the harness back to the computer). With the wiring harness disconnected, use your meter to test each of the wires that go to the ABS sensor. Check for continuity of each wire and then check for a short between the wires. Also check for a short to ground. If you find any of those conditions, replace the harness. Do NOT attempt to fix the short/open. The system operates on such low voltage that the increased resistance of a splice may prevent communication. Also, a splice make actually break again due to the flexing required.

If the harness checks out, your problem is most likely in the ABS sensor wheel bearing/hub assembly. You can test the ABS sensor by connecting a digital multimeter to the ABS sensor connector and setting your meter to AC voltage. Then spin the wheel. You should see AC fluctuations. If you don’t then it’s safe to assume the wiring is broken. If you see fluctuation, you cannot assume that the sensor is good. The multimeter test is not considered the most reliable test. A more accurate test requires a scope.

To replace the wheel bearing/hub, you will need to remove the axle nut. That will require a large socket and a long ½” breaker bar. You can use an impact wrench to remove the axle nut, but you CANNOT use the impact wrench to install the new one. The impact can destroy the new bearing. Also, make sure you install a NEW axle nut. The old one CANNOT be reused. Find the torque value for the new nut and use a torque wrench to set it properly.

Alldatadiy.com

eautorepair.net

Both Alldata and Eautorepair offer professional grade shop manuals at a price you can afford. Check them out!.

Hover your mouse over the REPAIR ARTICLES tab at the top of the page. The click on DIAGNOSTICS to search by SYMPTOM, TROUBLE CODE, or read TECH TIPS on how to diagnose a problem

Click on MAKE an MODEL to see all the articles I’ve written for your vehicle
Click on REPAIR TOPICS to read individual articles written for specific automotive systems

If you’ve had your car scanned and know the trouble code go to TROUBLE CODES

Here are some quick links to speed up your research

Click on the link below for speedy navigation:

ABS issues, how to bleed ABS brakes

Airbag issues or SRS light on

Alternator issues or how to test

Belt diagram or serpentine belt issues

Blower motor

Blower motor resistor

Brakes, brake issues, what kind of brake parts to buy, ABS issues

Car Alarms or Antitheft systems

Cooling system, Water pump, What type of coolant to use

Engine flush

Firing order, cylinder layout, finding #1 cylinder

MAF or MAP sensor

Oxygen sensors, How they work, How to change, How to test

PassLock or Passkey

Thermostat issues

Transmission flush

Serpentine belt diagrams

Window issues, power window motor, replace window regulator, glass adhesive

ABS light on, GM vehicles, Check engine light on, no start, trouble codes

Rick — Sat, 17 Oct 2009 16:22:09 +0000

GM has issued a TSB #00-06-04-049B to address a problem where the vehicle has various drivability symptoms, the check engine light is on or lights intermittently, ABS light is on, and the engine will not start. The TSB applies to 1997-03 Buick Century, Regal Built Prior to 2/03, 2000-03 Chevrolet Impala, Monte Carlo Built Prior to 2/03, 1999-01 Pontiac Grand Prix Built Prior to 10/1/00-VIN Breakpoint 1F136536

The full list of symptoms include:
ABS light on
Service Engine Soon light on or intermittent
No start
Starts and stalls soon after start up
Various electrical system failure
Poor operation/drivability is poor

These problems can be traced to the wiring harness where it chaffs against the mounting ring on the air conditioning accumulator. The accumulator is a large aluminum color canister. Inspect the wiring harness in that area and look for any damaged wire insulation and repair with heat shrinkable tubing or 3M Electrical Moisture Sealant Patches #06149. After repairing the wires, wrap the entire contact area with friction tape (not electricians tape)

Alldatadiy.com

eautorepair.net

Both Alldata and Eautorepair offer professional grade shop manuals at a price you can afford. Check them out!.

Hover your mouse over the REPAIR ARTICLES tab at the top of the page. The click on DIAGNOSTICS to search by SYMPTOM, TROUBLE CODE, or read TECH TIPS on how to diagnose a problem

Click on MAKE an MODEL to see all the articles I’ve written for your vehicle
Click on REPAIR TOPICS to read individual articles written for specific automotive systems

If you’ve had your car scanned and know the trouble code go to TROUBLE CODES

Here are some quick links to speed up your research

Click on the link below for speedy navigation:

ABS issues, how to bleed ABS brakes

Airbag issues or SRS light on

Alternator issues or how to test

Belt diagram or serpentine belt issues

Blower motor

Blower motor resistor

Brakes, brake issues, what kind of brake parts to buy, ABS issues

Car Alarms or Antitheft systems

Cooling system, Water pump, What type of coolant to use

Engine flush

Firing order, cylinder layout, finding #1 cylinder

MAF or MAP sensor

Oxygen sensors, How they work, How to change, How to test

PassLock or Passkey

Thermostat issues

Transmission flush

Serpentine belt diagrams

Window issues, power window motor, replace window regulator, glass adhesive

E an MODEL to see all the articles I’ve written for your vehicle
Click on REPAIR TOPICS to read individual articles written for specific automotive systems

If you’ve had your car scanned and know the trouble code go to TROUBLE CODES

Here are some quick links to speed up your research

Click on the link below for speedy navigation:

ABS issues, how to bleed ABS brakes

Airbag issues or SRS light on

Alternator issues or how to test

Belt diagram or serpentine belt issues

Blower motor

Blower motor resistor

Brakes, brake issues, what kind of brake parts to buy, ABS issues

Car Alarms or Antitheft systems

Cooling system, Water pump, What type of coolant to use

Engine flush

Firing order, cylinder layout, finding #1 cylinder

MAF or MAP sensor

Oxygen sensors, How they work, How to change, How to test

PassLock or Passkey

Thermostat issues

Transmission flush

Serpentine belt diagrams

Window issues, power window motor, replace window regulator, glass adhesive

For more information on this repair and others for your vehicle, buy a 1-week subscription ($11.99) to eautorepair and all the TSB’s and repair information for your vehicle.