Rick's Free Auto Repair Advice » Explorer

ABS Codes C1235 and C1236 on Ford Explorer

Rick — Thu, 22 May 2008 03:43:00 +0000

These two ABS related trouble codes would lead you to believe there’s a problem with both the left rear and right rear ABS sensors. But when you get under the vehicle, you won’t find separate sensors. That’s right, there’s only one and it’s NOT mounted at the either wheel. It’s mounted on the differential and the tone ring is inside the differential.

To test the system, check for at least 10 volts on the light green/red wire at the sensor with the key in the run position. Then check for good ground at the light green/black wire. Both of these wires run from the ABS module to the sensor. If you don’t have power or ground, follow the wiring harness backwards towards the module.

If power and ground are good, remove the sensor and rotate the rear wheels so you can examine the teeth on the tone ring inside the differential. If there are missing or damaged teeth, well, get ready for a big repair. The tone ring can be damaged by a chipped tooth on either the ring or pinion gear. If the teeth look good, replace the sensor—it’s a fairly common failure point.

For more information on this repair or any others for your vehicle, buy an online subscription to either Alldatadiy.com or eautorepair.net. Click on this link to compare the two services: Compare Alldata and Eautorepair.

If you just need information for a single repair and want to save money,eautorepair offers a lower price 1-week subscription for only $11.99. Or, if you'll be working on this vehicle in the future, you can buy a 1-year subscription (Alldatadiy.com for $26.99, or eautorepair.net $29.99)

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Hover your mouse over the REPAIR ARTICLES tab at the top of the page. The click on DIAGNOSTICS to search by SYMPTOM, TROUBLE CODE, or read TECH TIPS on how to diagnose a problem

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If you've had your car scanned and know the trouble code go to TROUBLE CODES

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ABS issues, how to bleed ABS brakes

Airbag issues or SRS light on

Alternator issues or how to test

Belt diagram or serpentine belt issues

Blower motor

Blower motor resistor

Brakes, brake issues, what kind of brake parts to buy, ABS issues

Car Alarms or Antitheft systems

Cooling system, Water pump, What type of coolant to use

Engine flush

Firing order, cylinder layout, finding #1 cylinder

MAF or MAP sensor

Oxygen sensors, How they work, How to change, How to test

PassLock or Passkey

Thermostat issues

Transmission flush

Serpentine belt diagrams

Window issues, power window motor, replace window regulator, glass adhesive

No Horn Engine Running but plenty of Horn With Engine Off—Ford Trucks

Rick — Wed, 02 Apr 2008 03:30:00 +0000

This may sound like the dumbest thing you’ve ever heard of, but if you look at the electrical diagram it makes a little more sense. Think about it—what controls are on the steering wheel? Cruise Control and the Horn. Ok, if you’ve got a really expensive Ford Truck, you might also have remote radio controls. But for the most part, we’re talking horn and cruise. How does the cruise control know how to behave? Well, it provides power to the switches in the steering wheel. Inside each switch is a resistor. When you operate the switch, power flows through the resistor and then goes to ground. The computer watches to see exactly how much the voltage dropped and by determining that, it figures out what command you’ve just issued to the cruise. Guess what? The horn works the same way. When you press the switch, it completes a path to ground. That activates the horn relay.

My guess is that if your horn isn’t working properly, your cruise isn’t either.

What’s the common thread here? Yup, you guessed it, the ground at the cruise control. In this case you’ll find the “ground” wire from the steering wheel coming into the cruise control servo at pin #6. It’s a dark green/orange wire. The servo is mounted on the driver’s side of the engine compartment. The servo itself gets its ground from the black wire at pin #10. So first check to see if you have good ground at pin #10. If you don’t have good ground there, neither the cruise, nor the horn will work. If you do have good ground, then try placing a jumper wire from pin #6 to pin #10. If your horn now works fine, you can conclude that it’s not getting proper ground from the electronics inside the cruise servo.

Alldatadiy.com

eautorepair.net

Both Alldata and Eautorepair offer professional grade shop manuals at a price you can afford. Check them out!.

Hover your mouse over the REPAIR ARTICLES tab at the top of the page. The click on DIAGNOSTICS to search by SYMPTOM, TROUBLE CODE, or read TECH TIPS on how to diagnose a problem

Click on MAKE an MODEL to see all the articles I've written for your vehicle
Click on REPAIR TOPICS to read individual articles written for specific automotive systems

If you've had your car scanned and know the trouble code go to TROUBLE CODES

Here are some quick links to speed up your research

Click on the link below for speedy navigation:

ABS issues, how to bleed ABS brakes

Airbag issues or SRS light on

Alternator issues or how to test

Belt diagram or serpentine belt issues

Blower motor

Blower motor resistor

Brakes, brake issues, what kind of brake parts to buy, ABS issues

Car Alarms or Antitheft systems

Cooling system, Water pump, What type of coolant to use

Engine flush

Firing order, cylinder layout, finding #1 cylinder

MAF or MAP sensor

Oxygen sensors, How they work, How to change, How to test

PassLock or Passkey

Thermostat issues

Transmission flush

Serpentine belt diagrams

Window issues, power window motor, replace window regulator, glass adhesive

Ford door switches—a known problem

Rick — Wed, 02 Apr 2008 03:21:00 +0000

Remember the pin/plunger switches that car makers used to install in the door jamb? Well, you won’t find them in Fords—some brilliant engineer had a “better idea.” They decided to place the switches inside the door right under the latch mechanism. When the door latches, a lever deactivates the switch and the body control module turns off the interior lights. Good so far….. The problem is that the switches gum up with grease from the latch mechanism or corrosion. That’s when interior lights stay on.

Some shops have reported success by saturating the latch mechanism with a rust penetrant and opening and closing the door about 20 or 30 times. That works the penetrant into the mechanism and some of it finds its way to the lever and switch. You really don’t have much to lose by trying this method because the only alternative is to remove the door trim panel and replace the switch.

I’ve tried this on a few Ford vehicles and had success. However, it’s not a long term fix. You will have to do it about twice a year.

Alldatadiy.com

eautorepair.net

Both Alldata and Eautorepair offer professional grade shop manuals at a price you can afford. Check them out!.

Hover your mouse over the REPAIR ARTICLES tab at the top of the page. The click on DIAGNOSTICS to search by SYMPTOM, TROUBLE CODE, or read TECH TIPS on how to diagnose a problem

Click on MAKE an MODEL to see all the articles I've written for your vehicle
Click on REPAIR TOPICS to read individual articles written for specific automotive systems

If you've had your car scanned and know the trouble code go to TROUBLE CODES

Here are some quick links to speed up your research

Click on the link below for speedy navigation:

ABS issues, how to bleed ABS brakes

Airbag issues or SRS light on

Alternator issues or how to test

Belt diagram or serpentine belt issues

Blower motor

Blower motor resistor

Brakes, brake issues, what kind of brake parts to buy, ABS issues

Car Alarms or Antitheft systems

Cooling system, Water pump, What type of coolant to use

Engine flush

Firing order, cylinder layout, finding #1 cylinder

MAF or MAP sensor

Oxygen sensors, How they work, How to change, How to test

PassLock or Passkey

Thermostat issues

Transmission flush

Serpentine belt diagrams

Window issues, power window motor, replace window regulator, glass adhesive

Vibration, Chatter, Binding in Ford Rear Wheel Drive Vehicles

Rick — Sun, 10 Feb 2008 04:08:00 +0000

Ford has disclosed a problem with limited slip differentials in 2002-04 Mustangs, Explorers, and Mercury Mountaineers, 2003 Navigators, 2003-04 Expeditions and 2004-F-150 pickups. The problem differentials vibrate, chatter, and feeling like they’re binding during slow turns. The clutch packs in the limited slip differential are the cause of the problem.

To pinpoint the differential as the cause, place the vehicle in 2WD. That will restrict all the power output to the rear differential. Put the transmission in gear and clock the steering wheel right or left while you slowly accelerate. If you feel the vibration or other symptoms when you do that, you’ll need to replace the clutch packs with an updated configuration. Here are the part numbers: F5!Z-4947-BA for 8.8” rear axles, 6L1Z-4947-A for 9.75” rear axles. Make sure you soak the clutch disks in the Ford limited slip friction modifier (Ford XL-3) for a minimum of 15 minutes before assembling.

If your vehicle has independent rear suspension, you will have to replace the circlips and wheel end nuts with new ones. Even though you soaked the clutch disks in friction modifier, you still have to add a full 4oz bottle to the diff. before refilling with lube #XY-75W140-QL.

Alldatadiy.com

eautorepair.net

Both Alldata and Eautorepair offer professional grade shop manuals at a price you can afford. Check them out!.

Hover your mouse over the REPAIR ARTICLES tab at the top of the page. The click on DIAGNOSTICS to search by SYMPTOM, TROUBLE CODE, or read TECH TIPS on how to diagnose a problem

Click on MAKE an MODEL to see all the articles I've written for your vehicle
Click on REPAIR TOPICS to read individual articles written for specific automotive systems

If you've had your car scanned and know the trouble code go to TROUBLE CODES

Here are some quick links to speed up your research

Click on the link below for speedy navigation:

ABS issues, how to bleed ABS brakes

Airbag issues or SRS light on

Alternator issues or how to test

Belt diagram or serpentine belt issues

Blower motor

Blower motor resistor

Brakes, brake issues, what kind of brake parts to buy, ABS issues

Car Alarms or Antitheft systems

Cooling system, Water pump, What type of coolant to use

Engine flush

Firing order, cylinder layout, finding #1 cylinder

MAF or MAP sensor

Oxygen sensors, How they work, How to change, How to test

PassLock or Passkey

Thermostat issues

Transmission flush

Serpentine belt diagrams

Window issues, power window motor, replace window regulator, glass adhesive

Chirping Noise When Cold – Ford Explorer

Rick — Wed, 29 Aug 2007 00:27:00 +0000

Technicians seem to be pulling their hair out on this problem. Especially since there can be several causes. Apparently, some vehicles are prone to having a power steering pump that is not properly aligned with the other pulleys. Still others have found noisy water pumps. But the kicker here is that after replacing multiple components, it can all come down to a noisy cam synchronizer. If you want to avoid throwing parts at the problem, do this: Remove the serpentine belt from the engine and start the engine cold. Removing the belt before starting eliminates all the rotating accessory components from the mix. If you still have the chirping, aim your stethoscope (http://free-auto-repair-advice.blogspot.com/search/label/stethoscope) right at the cam synchronizer. Try re-adjusting the synchronizer before you decide to replace it.

If you don't hear the noise with the belt off and it returns when you re-install the belt, then you have a problem with one of your rotating accessory components.

P.S. don’t run the engine for more than a few minutes or you can overheat.

Alldatadiy.com

eautorepair.net

Both Alldata and Eautorepair offer professional grade shop manuals at a price you can afford. Check them out!.

Hover your mouse over the REPAIR ARTICLES tab at the top of the page. The click on DIAGNOSTICS to search by SYMPTOM, TROUBLE CODE, or read TECH TIPS on how to diagnose a problem

Click on MAKE an MODEL to see all the articles I've written for your vehicle
Click on REPAIR TOPICS to read individual articles written for specific automotive systems

If you've had your car scanned and know the trouble code go to TROUBLE CODES

Here are some quick links to speed up your research

Click on the link below for speedy navigation:

ABS issues, how to bleed ABS brakes

Airbag issues or SRS light on

Alternator issues or how to test

Belt diagram or serpentine belt issues

Blower motor

Blower motor resistor

Brakes, brake issues, what kind of brake parts to buy, ABS issues

Car Alarms or Antitheft systems

Cooling system, Water pump, What type of coolant to use

Engine flush

Firing order, cylinder layout, finding #1 cylinder

MAF or MAP sensor

Oxygen sensors, How they work, How to change, How to test

PassLock or Passkey

Thermostat issues

Transmission flush

Serpentine belt diagrams

Window issues, power window motor, replace window regulator, glass adhesive

Intermittent no-crank – Ford cars and trucks

Rick — Fri, 10 Aug 2007 21:49:00 +0000

Ford has discovered a problem in its starting circuit that affects a wide range of cars and trucks. The problem results in an intermittent no-crank condition. The problem is an intermittent open circuit between the starter relay and the starter motor. To correct the problem, Ford has issued a new starter terminal pigtail kit (Part #6U2Z-14S411-NA). The installation instructions are included with the kit.

1997-2004 F-150 Heritage trucks
1997-2006 Ford Expeditions
1997-2007 Ford Crown Victoria and
Mercury Grand Marquis
1998-2006 Ford E-series vans and
Lincoln Navigators
1999-2006 Ford F-Super Duty
pickups
2002-07 Ford Explorers and
Mercury Mountaineers
2003-05 Lincoln Aviators
2004-06 F-150 pickups
2007 Ford Explorer Sport Tracs

Alldatadiy.com

eautorepair.net

Both Alldata and Eautorepair offer professional grade shop manuals at a price you can afford. Check them out!.

Hover your mouse over the REPAIR ARTICLES tab at the top of the page. The click on DIAGNOSTICS to search by SYMPTOM, TROUBLE CODE, or read TECH TIPS on how to diagnose a problem

Click on MAKE an MODEL to see all the articles I've written for your vehicle
Click on REPAIR TOPICS to read individual articles written for specific automotive systems

If you've had your car scanned and know the trouble code go to TROUBLE CODES

Here are some quick links to speed up your research

Click on the link below for speedy navigation:

ABS issues, how to bleed ABS brakes

Airbag issues or SRS light on

Alternator issues or how to test

Belt diagram or serpentine belt issues

Blower motor

Blower motor resistor

Brakes, brake issues, what kind of brake parts to buy, ABS issues

Car Alarms or Antitheft systems

Cooling system, Water pump, What type of coolant to use

Engine flush

Firing order, cylinder layout, finding #1 cylinder

MAF or MAP sensor

Oxygen sensors, How they work, How to change, How to test

PassLock or Passkey

Thermostat issues

Transmission flush

Serpentine belt diagrams

Window issues, power window motor, replace window regulator, glass adhesive

Wipers won’t shut off — Ford – The problem and the fix.

Rick — Mon, 09 Jul 2007 00:53:00 +0000

If you own one of the Ford vehicles listed below and you can’t get your wipers to shut off, here’s the fix. Ford wiper systems are controlled by the turn signal stalk on the “multi-function” switch. As you rotate the knob to activate the wipers, the resistance changes and the Wiper Control Module (WCM) reads the changing voltage and commands the wipers to a new speed or on/off. The problem of perpetual wipers is due to a poorly designed multi-function switch, not a bad WCM or a defective Generic Electronic Module (GEM). Ford has changed the part to correct the problem and now has a newer multi function switch. Before changing out the switch, make sure all the connections from the switch to the GEM and WCM module are fully seated. If they are, you will need to install the newer switch. Make sure you disable the air bag system before disassembling the cowling around the switch. An electrical mishap while working on the switch could pop off the air bag. The affected vehicles are:

1999 Taurus • 1999–2000 Mustang, Explorer, F150, F250, Ranger and Windstar •
2000 Excursion • 1999 Sable • 1999–2000 Mountainee

Alldatadiy.com

eautorepair.net

Both Alldata and Eautorepair offer professional grade shop manuals at a price you can afford. Check them out!.

Hover your mouse over the REPAIR ARTICLES tab at the top of the page. The click on DIAGNOSTICS to search by SYMPTOM, TROUBLE CODE, or read TECH TIPS on how to diagnose a problem

Click on MAKE an MODEL to see all the articles I've written for your vehicle
Click on REPAIR TOPICS to read individual articles written for specific automotive systems

If you've had your car scanned and know the trouble code go to TROUBLE CODES

Here are some quick links to speed up your research

Click on the link below for speedy navigation:

ABS issues, how to bleed ABS brakes

Airbag issues or SRS light on

Alternator issues or how to test

Belt diagram or serpentine belt issues

Blower motor

Blower motor resistor

Brakes, brake issues, what kind of brake parts to buy, ABS issues

Car Alarms or Antitheft systems

Cooling system, Water pump, What type of coolant to use