Rick's Free Auto Repair Advice » Diagnostic Tips

Where to get wiring diagrams and repair information

Rick — Sun, 25 Apr 2010 21:22:38 +0000

I volunteer on a LOT of auto repair forums and I constantly see people asking for free wiring diagrams and step-by-step repair instructions. The first thing you need to know about online wiring diagrams is that there is NEVER a single wiring diagram for your car. When I need a diagram, I have to enter the year, make, model, and OPTIONS into the first page of the program. Why? Because a wiring diagram for power doors locks on a 2001 Ford Taurus WITH a security system is different than the diagram for the exact same vehicle WITHOUT a security system. I could go on and on, but the bottom line is that if you don’t key in all that information, you’ll get the wrong diagram. So when online posters just as for a wiring diagram for their vehicle, their chances of getting the right diagram are, you guessed it, ZIP. Nadda. The same applies to step-by-step repair information—it’s different for vehicles depending on what equipment you have and which engine/transmission combination is in the vehicle.

Next, you should know that there’s really no such thing as a free wiring diagram or free shop manual. The cheap manuals (Haynes, Chilton, etc) have really lousy diagrams (in my opinion), which is why you see so many posts that say, “I have a Haynes manual but need a wiring diagram for….” The car companies are charging for all repair information these days and it’s not cheap. So in order to get your hands on good reliable information, you simply have to bite the bullet and pay for it. Here are your options.

1. eautorepair.net – This site is run by Mitchell on Demand, which is used by the pros. They redraw all the factory wiring diagrams so they are MUCH easier to read. Really, I’d rather use their diagrams than any factory manual. Their repair instructions are good too. The downside to this service is their lack of body repair information. You cannot get any door panel removal instructions or any interior door repair steps. The same goes for instrument panel removal. The upside is that their service is very accessible for DIY’ers. You can buy a 1-week subscription for $12. They also sell a 1-month and 1-year subscription.

2. Alldata – This site is like the eautorepair site except that they DO include some body repair information. They have diagrams that show how to remove door panels and some dash panels. Their wiring diagrams are all FACTORY diagrams. If you know how to read them, great. If not, it can be quite a challenge for the average DIYer. They offer a 1-year subscription for $27.

3. Factory shop manuals – There’s no comparison here. These are the best manuals out there. They have the most diagrams and the best instructions. They also include in-depth articles on how the systems work. That can really help you when it comes to diagnosing a problem. The downside? The cost. Click here to find the site for your make. http://www.oem1stop.com/

3. Public library – That’s right, you forgot about them, didn’t you. Many public libraries subscribe to online repair services. If you have a library card you can use their computers and print out the repair instructions or diagrams for a small fee. The downside is that most libraries require you to access the service from inside the library—meaning, you can’t get it from home.

4. Ebay – If you sign on to ebaymotors, you’ll find tons of factory DVDs for cheap prices. Often these are bootleg copies. But if you’re concerned about whether they’re selling a legit copy, ask the seller.

Here’s the bottom line, and there is NO way around it—if you want reliable information, you’re going to have to pay for it. You would not believe the number of emails I get from people who have wasted days trying to fix their cars with the wrong wiring diagram, torque specs, or incorrect or missing repair steps. If only they had spend a few bucks on a subscription, they could have read the latest technical service bulletin warning them NOT to replace the entire ABS control module simply because the ground wire needed cleaning. Yes, it happens that often.

For more information on this repair or any others for your vehicle, buy an online subscription to either Alldatadiy.com or eautorepair.net. Click on this link to compare the two services: Compare Alldata and Eautorepair.

If you just need information for a single repair and want to save money,eautorepair offers a lower price 1-week subscription for only $11.99. Or, if you'll be working on this vehicle in the future, you can buy a 1-year subscription (Alldatadiy.com for $26.99, or eautorepair.net $29.99)

Alldatadiy.com

eautorepair.net

Both Alldata and Eautorepair offer professional grade shop manuals at a price you can afford. Check them out!.

Alternator testing

Rick — Fri, 23 Apr 2010 22:09:17 +0000

Cardone, a major re builder of alternators has issued a service bulletin regarding the right and wrong ways to test an alternator.

THE WRONG WAY

Disconnecting the battery cables while the vehicle is running can generate a voltage spike as high as 150 volts! That’s enough to fry every computer in your vehicle, along with your stereo, fuses, remote door locks, etc. Reconnecting battery cables generates a second spike.

THE RIGHT WAY

The battery must be fully charged and a volt meter must read at least 12.6 volts with the engine off and no loads (headlights off, etc). Next, start the vehicle and apply the voltmeter. It should read between 13 and 15 volts. Be aware that newer vehicles DO NOT CHARGE the battery unless it needs charging!!

Alldatadiy.com

eautorepair.net

Both Alldata and Eautorepair offer professional grade shop manuals at a price you can afford. Check them out!.

Readiness Monitors and Drive Cycles Explained

Rick — Sun, 21 Mar 2010 01:46:21 +0000

In the old days of OBDI, you could reset the computer and run your vehicle over to the emissions testing station. Not anymore. Everytime you clear the codes from the computer, it basically reboots and starts all the testing routines over again from scratch. Each “drive cycle” routine has its own parameters to meet before it sets a “readiness monitor.” If the readiness monitor isn’t set, the testing station will see that immediately and send you packing.

Here’s an example of a drive cycle readiness routine for a Chevrolet Trailblazer.

At least 17 hours have elapsed since the last drive cycle met and passed the test criteria. That means you can’t clear codes and immediately try to perform a drive cycle and zoom off to the testing station. Remember, minimum of 17 hours.

Check engine light is off.

No Emission related trouble codes are present.

BARO signal more than 74 kPa.

Battery voltage between 10-18v.

Difference between the ECT and IAT signals less than 14ºF at startup. In other words, the two sensors must be good.

Engine coolant temp between 39-86ºF at startup. Can’t start this test on a sub-zero day.

Intake air temp signal between 39-86ºF at startup.

Fuel level between 25-75%.

If you meet all those criteria, then

1. Start the engine and allow it run at idle speed for 15 seconds.
2. Accelerate at part-throttle to 45 mph and maintain that speed until the engine reaches normal operating temperature (this can take up to 10 minutes).
3. Drive for another 3 minutes at 45 mph on a flat road without climbing any hills to minimize the fuel slosh. Bring the vehicle to a stop in a safe place, but do not turn off the
ignition key.
4. On the scan tool or code reader with readiness monitor feature, check the status of the readiness code for the EVAP System Monitor. The Readiness code should change to
YES when the test is done. If it does, return home turn off the ignition key.

If it does not, check for any temporary codes. If no temporary codes are set, return to step 3 and repeat the test procedure. Check the status of the Readiness code for the EVAP System Monitor. The Readiness code should change to YES when the test is done.

NOTE:
Extremely high or low ambient temperatures may prevent this test from running. If the test is interrupted before completion, do all of the test steps from the beginning. If a small leak is detected during testing, a minimum of 3 drive cycles may be required before the EVAP Monitor status will update to YES. Performing a visual inspection prior to running the EVAP test may prevent having to repeat the test. An aborted or failed test will require the vehicle to cool down in order to meet the test conditions to run another test sequence.

Alldatadiy.com

eautorepair.net

Both Alldata and Eautorepair offer professional grade shop manuals at a price you can afford. Check them out!.

Hover your mouse over the REPAIR ARTICLES tab at the top of the page. The click on DIAGNOSTICS to search by SYMPTOM, TROUBLE CODE, or read TECH TIPS on how to diagnose a problem

Click on MAKE an MODEL to see all the articles I've written for your vehicle
Click on REPAIR TOPICS to read individual articles written for specific automotive systems

If you've had your car scanned and know the trouble code go to TROUBLE CODES

Here are some quick links to speed up your research

Click on the link below for speedy navigation:

ABS issues, how to bleed ABS brakes

Airbag issues or SRS light on

Alternator issues or how to test

Belt diagram or serpentine belt issues

Blower motor

Blower motor resistor

Brakes, brake issues, what kind of brake parts to buy, ABS issues

Car Alarms or Antitheft systems

Cooling system, Water pump, What type of coolant to use

Engine flush

Firing order, cylinder layout, finding #1 cylinder

MAF or MAP sensor

Oxygen sensors, How they work, How to change, How to test

PassLock or Passkey

Thermostat issues

Transmission flush

Serpentine belt diagrams

Window issues, power window motor, replace window regulator, glass adhesive

Oil Life Light Reset Procedure on Buick Rendezvous

Rick — Tue, 16 Feb 2010 04:37:07 +0000

The higher end Rendezvous vehicles have a Driver Information Center (DIC) that allows you to reset the oil life system. But if your vehicle doesn’t have that and you change the oil and find that the light doesn’t go out, you’ll have to do a manual reset.

Here’s how to do it: Turn the key to ON but don’t start the engine. Press and release the accelerator pedal slowly three times. You must complete this within three seconds. Then turn the key to the OFF position. If the Change Engine Oil light comes back on, repeat the procedure until it goes out and stays out.

Alldatadiy.com

eautorepair.net

Both Alldata and Eautorepair offer professional grade shop manuals at a price you can afford. Check them out!.

Hover your mouse over the REPAIR ARTICLES tab at the top of the page. The click on DIAGNOSTICS to search by SYMPTOM, TROUBLE CODE, or read TECH TIPS on how to diagnose a problem

Click on MAKE an MODEL to see all the articles I've written for your vehicle
Click on REPAIR TOPICS to read individual articles written for specific automotive systems

If you've had your car scanned and know the trouble code go to TROUBLE CODES

Here are some quick links to speed up your research

Click on the link below for speedy navigation:

ABS issues, how to bleed ABS brakes

Airbag issues or SRS light on

Alternator issues or how to test

Belt diagram or serpentine belt issues

Blower motor

Blower motor resistor

Brakes, brake issues, what kind of brake parts to buy, ABS issues

Car Alarms or Antitheft systems

Cooling system, Water pump, What type of coolant to use

Engine flush

Firing order, cylinder layout, finding #1 cylinder

MAF or MAP sensor

Oxygen sensors, How they work, How to change, How to test

PassLock or Passkey

Thermostat issues

Transmission flush

Serpentine belt diagrams

Window issues, power window motor, replace window regulator, glass adhesive

How to buy an extended warranty

Rick — Fri, 05 Feb 2010 00:36:15 +0000

There are basically two types of extended warranties: Factory and Aftermarket. The factory warranty is only available from a dealer. But don’t confuse that to mean your SELLING dealer. If you buy a GM vehicle, for example, you can buy a genuine GM extended warranty from ANY authorized GM dealer—even on the Internet. Just make sure that you’re getting a factory warranty.

An aftermarket warranty is similar to an insurance policy. In some states, these warranties are regulated by the state’s insurance commissioner. That means they must be registered and be underwritten. If you’re buying an aftermarket warranty, you WANT one that’s underwritten. That means the warranty company has purchased and INSURANCE policy to cover your claims in the event the warranty company itself goes out of business. If you buy an extended warranty from a company that isn’t underwritten and they go out of business, you’re basically SCREWED. It happens all the time. Warranty companies open up, collect your money, pay a few claims (refuse payment on most claims) and then, when the word starts getting around that they don’t pay their claims, they fold up and disappear.

Which is better?

Almost universally, the factory extended warranty offers better coverage. But don’t assume that just because you buy a warranty from a dealer, that you’re getting a factory warranty. Car dealers can sell any warranty they want. Why would they sell you an aftermarket warranty? Simple. They make more money on them.

Since the factory warranties cover more, they also cost more. But dealers don’t like selling them because the profit margins are lower. Depending on the make, car dealers can make almost 40% profit on a factory warranty. When you consider that they sell for almost $2,000, that adds quite a bit of profit to the sale of a new car. But an aftermarket warranty can net them almost 60% profit. Which would you sell?

Understand your obligations

No warranty is going to cover your vehicle if you haven’t done your part. That means you must perform all the recommended maintenance and BE ABLE TO PROVE IT. Yes, you have to save ALL your receipts. And, you have to do each recommended service at the proper mileage or time specified in the owner’s manuals. Skip the maintenance and you risk having your entire claim denied.

How to read the fine print.

Since the warranty is like an insurance policy, you can’t just gloss over the page and assume you’re covered. The first section to read is the EXCLUSIONS: Extended warranties do not cover maintenance (oil, fluid, coolant changes, AC recharge, spark plug changes, bulbs, belts, tires, brakes, etc). They also routinely exclude squeaks and rattles (that means annoying non-specific squeaks and rattles). But if the squeak or rattle is caused by the failure of a covered component, it should be covered. Example, you’ve changed your oil religiously and the oil pump is starting to fail. You take it in for service because you hear a knocking sound. A weasel company will automatically deny the claim due to the “squeak clause.” But a real company will belly up and pay for the oil pump. See how this works? Look specifically for this deal breaker: emissions or emissions components. If you see that phrase, it means you’re not covered for any computers, sensors, or malfunctions of the fuel, ignition, or catalytic converter systems in the vehicle. And that’s where you’re liable to ring up the most repairs! If the warranty excludes those, walk away.

The next section to read is the DEFINITIONS: This one is really important. The word failure means different things to the consumer than it does to the warranty company. Since you’re bound by THEIR definition, you’d better read it upfront. Do NOT depend on the salesperson or the finance person to give you their interpretation of what the terms mean. They’ll be long gone when it’s time for you to file a claim.

Here’s what to look for:

Failure – a component can fail to perform its intended function for several reasons. It could be defective. It could be worn out from normal wear and tear. Or, it could be damaged by another component that failed. You guessed it, you want the definition to include all three. Weasel companies will define a failure as a defect only. Part wore out? So sorry. Not covered.

Fluids – I said above that no warranty will cover normal maintenance. But what if your air conditioning compressor springs a leak and all the refrigerant leaks out? They should cover the cost of the new compressor AND the new refrigerant because the refrigerant loss was due to the failure of a covered part. Get it?

Diagnostic charges – You don’t want your mechanic guessing what’s wrong with your car. Neither does your warranty company. They want it fixed right the first time. They just don’t want to pay for a proper diagnosis. A weasel company will work it this way: “We will pay for the cost of tear-down and inspection IF the failure is a covered component.” I have seen companies deny coverage for performing a computer scan. In those instances, you have wait until they discover the root cause and then fight with them over the definition of “teardown and inspection.” Is a scan a teardown? I’ve won the argument by claiming that a scan is an inspection and that a teardown to find the root cause would actually have been more expensive. But the bottom line is this: Do you even want to have this fight in the first place? Don’t buy from a weasel company.

Can they tell you where to have it fixed?

Most warranty companies go out of their way to tell you that you can take your car to any repair shop. But they also know that the dealer will be more expensive than an independent shop. So how do the weasel companies get around this? They have a clause in the policy that says they will pay the “reasonable and customary” charges. Then, when you submit the claim, they’ll tell you that the dealer’s labor charges are higher than reasonable and customary. You can counter that by conducting a survey of all dealers in your area to prove that your dealer’s charges are in-line with all the other dealers. But do you really want to spend your time that way? The warranty company cannot force you to take your vehicle to a less expensive shop unless they include that provision in their policy.

New parts? Old parts?

Here’s when things can get really hairy. Many times the dealer doesn’t sell rebuilt parts. A new alternator for a BMW from the dealer is almost $900. A rebuilt alternator for the same vehicle is $400. A used one is $150. Guess which one the warranty company wants? You can insist on a new one, but only if your warranty says that. Find out exactly what the warranty says about parts before you buy it!!

How to negotiate the price of a factory warranty.

I said earlier that factory warranties are NEGOTIABLE. No dealer will openly admit that. They insist that they cannot deal on a factory warranty.

Here’s how to haggle for a discounted price. Meet with the finance people and agree to every single item they try to sell you. Warranty, glass protection, paint sealant, etc. Then ask what the new payment will be. In the meantime, the finance person will be figuring out how they intend to spend their commission (yeah, they work on commission). When you hear the new monthly payment, freak out and tell them to take it all off--including the warranty. Then tell them you'll buy your warranty online. They'll tell you that those are no good. You tell them you know someone who has a really good online warranty company. Be prepared to walk out on the deal (not really). At the very end, they'll drop the price. I've done this with my car, my son's car, and my daughter's. Works every time. After they’ve mentally spent their commission, they won’t want to let you walk out without buying it from them—even at a discounted price. Hey, car buying is a blood sport.

How to find a good aftermarket warranty

Talk to one of the service writers at a dealership. They work with the aftermarket warranty companies all day. The weasel companies take up their time and put them in the middle between the mechanic who wants to fix the problem and the warranty company that doesn’t want to pay for it. They know which companies are the goods ones, and they keep a black list of the companies that won't pay or make life miserable. Ask them. They’ll tell you.

Alldatadiy.com

eautorepair.net

Both Alldata and Eautorepair offer professional grade shop manuals at a price you can afford. Check them out!.

Hover your mouse over the REPAIR ARTICLES tab at the top of the page. The click on DIAGNOSTICS to search by SYMPTOM, TROUBLE CODE, or read TECH TIPS on how to diagnose a problem

Click on MAKE an MODEL to see all the articles I've written for your vehicle
Click on REPAIR TOPICS to read individual articles written for specific automotive systems

If you've had your car scanned and know the trouble code go to TROUBLE CODES

Here are some quick links to speed up your research

Click on the link below for speedy navigation:

ABS issues, how to bleed ABS brakes

Airbag issues or SRS light on

Alternator issues or how to test

Belt diagram or serpentine belt issues

Blower motor

Blower motor resistor

Brakes, brake issues, what kind of brake parts to buy, ABS issues

Car Alarms or Antitheft systems

Cooling system, Water pump, What type of coolant to use

Engine flush

Firing order, cylinder layout, finding #1 cylinder

MAF or MAP sensor

Oxygen sensors, How they work, How to change, How to test

PassLock or Passkey

Thermostat issues

Transmission flush

Serpentine belt diagrams

Window issues, power window motor, replace window regulator, glass adhesive

How to Get Unstuck Without Burning up Your Transmission

Rick — Wed, 03 Feb 2010 03:22:23 +0000

How to Get Unstuck Without Burning up Your Transmission

Using the wrong "Rocking" technique can destroy your transmission.

If you've been taught to rock yourself out of a rut, snow, or ice by shifting from R to D, PAY ATTENTION TO THIS ARTICLE.

If you use that technique, I can just about guarantee you that you'll destroy your transmission. Yeah, I know, you've done it before with no damage. Well, you were lucky. The transmissions in late model vehicles simply cannot take that kind of abuse.

Here's how the damage happens. You put the vehicle in D and give it gas. The transmission immediately goes through the 1-2 and 2-3 shift. That means clutch packs pressurize, and bands apply. Before all the spinning parts have a chance to stop, you slam it into R. All those clutches disengage, bands move, and it shifts into reverse. The clutch material starts to overheat from being applied so quickly. Also, the high pressure needed to engage and disengage those clutches heats up the transmission fluid. Then you move it back into D and the procedure repeats. Over and over again.

By the time you're out of the ditch, you've glazed the clutch disks and possibly warped the steel spacer rings. That damage is permanent and it will come back to haunt you. Maybe not right away. But within six months, your transmission will scream for mercy. And when it goes, you won't connect its demise with that "stuck in the snow" incident from last winter.

What's the PROPER way to rock a vehicle?

Move the shift level to LOW gear. Slowly apply the gas. The wheels will start to spin and begin to move the vehicle up the rut. Do NOT exceed 15MPH on the speedo. When you reach the maximum forward movement, take your foot OFF the gas. Let inertia roll you back into the ditch. Then give it gas again. Use the vehicle's weight and inertia to get you out.

This procedure keeps the transmission in low gear. That locks out the 1-2 and 3-4 shift and eliminates Reverse from the equation.

If you can't get unstuck, CALL A FREAKING TOW TRUCK. It's a LOT cheaper than a new transmission.

Module rebuilders

Rick — Sat, 19 Dec 2009 02:01:12 +0000

Every car is filled with computer modules. The car makers are not making any efforts to offer customers rebuilt modules when the factory ones burn out. Don't get stuck paying outrageous prices for new modules. Get yours rebuilt. The rebuilders below each offer different programs. Some have rebuilt modules in stock. Others require you to send yours in for rebuilding. I have actual experience with bba-raman.com and modulemaster.com. I'm listing the others, not as an endorsement, but for your convenience.

www.bba-reman.com/

www.modulemaster.com

http://www.autoecms.com/

www.autocomputerexchange.com

www.goecm.com

www.ecmdepot.com

http://ecmoutlet.com

www.directautomotiveproducts.com

Alldatadiy.com

eautorepair.net

Both Alldata and Eautorepair offer professional grade shop manuals at a price you can afford. Check them out!.

Hover your mouse over the REPAIR ARTICLES tab at the top of the page. The click on DIAGNOSTICS to search by SYMPTOM, TROUBLE CODE, or read TECH TIPS on how to diagnose a problem

Click on MAKE an MODEL to see all the articles I've written for your vehicle
Click on REPAIR TOPICS to read individual articles written for specific automotive systems

If you've had your car scanned and know the trouble code go to TROUBLE CODES

Here are some quick links to speed up your research

Click on the link below for speedy navigation:

ABS issues, how to bleed ABS brakes

Airbag issues or SRS light on

Alternator issues or how to test

Belt diagram or serpentine belt issues

Blower motor

Blower motor resistor

Brakes, brake issues, what kind of brake parts to buy, ABS issues

Car Alarms or Antitheft systems

Cooling system, Water pump, What type of coolant to use

Engine flush

Firing order, cylinder layout, finding #1 cylinder

MAF or MAP sensor

Oxygen sensors, How they work, How to change, How to test

PassLock or Passkey

Thermostat issues

Transmission flush

Serpentine belt diagrams

Window issues, power window motor, replace window regulator, glass adhesive

Key stuck in ignition, GM vehicles

Rick — Mon, 12 Oct 2009 18:59:15 +0000

GM has issued a TSB #05-07-30-021B regarding stuck ignition keys. The TSB applies to 2004-07 Buick Ranier, 2002-08 Chevrolet Trailblazer,, 2002-08 GMC Envoy, and 2003-04 Oldsmobile Bravada.

The most common cause of the problem is the shifter boot caught in the shifter mechanism. Start by inspecting the shifter boot to see if it is caught in the shifter assembly. If it is, reposition the shifter boot. If the boot is damaged, replace it with a new shifter boot. GM warns NOT to replace the entire shifter mechanism. The problem is only with the boot.

Alldatadiy.com

eautorepair.net

Both Alldata and Eautorepair offer professional grade shop manuals at a price you can afford. Check them out!.

Hover your mouse over the REPAIR ARTICLES tab at the top of the page. The click on DIAGNOSTICS to search by SYMPTOM, TROUBLE CODE, or read TECH TIPS on how to diagnose a problem

Click on MAKE an MODEL to see all the articles I've written for your vehicle
Click on REPAIR TOPICS to read individual articles written for specific automotive systems

If you've had your car scanned and know the trouble code go to TROUBLE CODES

Here are some quick links to speed up your research

Click on the link below for speedy navigation:

ABS issues, how to bleed ABS brakes

Airbag issues or SRS light on

Alternator issues or how to test

Belt diagram or serpentine belt issues

Blower motor

Blower motor resistor

Brakes, brake issues, what kind of brake parts to buy, ABS issues

Car Alarms or Antitheft systems

Cooling system, Water pump, What type of coolant to use

Engine flush

Firing order, cylinder layout, finding #1 cylinder

MAF or MAP sensor

Oxygen sensors, How they work, How to change, How to test

PassLock or Passkey

Thermostat issues

Transmission flush

Serpentine belt diagrams

Window issues, power window motor, replace window regulator, glass adhesive

Voltmeter fluctuates on GM Trucks

Rick — Mon, 12 Oct 2009 05:31:38 +0000

GM has issued a technical service bulletin #07-06-03-009 advising dealers that fluctuating voltage on the vehicle's voltmeter is NORMAL and is not a reason to replace any parts. The TSB applies to 2005-08 Cadillac Escalade, 2005-08 avlanche, Silverado, Silverado Classic, Suburban, Tahoe, 2005-08 GMC Sierra, Sierra Classic, and Yukon.

The charging systems in these vehicles do not use an alternator decoupler to increase gas mileage. Instead they incorporate a Regulated Voltage Control (RVC) system. The RVC is controlled by the PCM and adjusts the amount of "field" to the generator. The purpose of the RVC system is to eliminate charging when it is not needed in order to improve fuel economy.

The targeted voltage in these system ranges from 12.6-13.1 volts when the system is in "Fuel Economy Mode." As soon as the PCM detects that the system needs additional power generation, it exist this mode and moves into "Charge Mode" at normal charging rates. So the vehicle owner may notice a fluctuation in the voltage meter from 12 to 14 volts. This is NORMAL. Do NOT replace any charging system components.

Some of these vehicles have a "tow/haul feature." When this feature is enabled, the charging system bypasses the economy mode and the generator output should be in the 13.9 to 15.5 volts range, depending on the stat of charge of the battery and the battery temperature.

You can force the system into Charge Mode by switch into the tow/haul mode, OR
simply turn on the vehicle's headlights. That will increase the generator's output to 13.9 to 15.5 volts.

Alldatadiy.com

eautorepair.net

Both Alldata and Eautorepair offer professional grade shop manuals at a price you can afford. Check them out!.

Hover your mouse over the REPAIR ARTICLES tab at the top of the page. The click on DIAGNOSTICS to search by SYMPTOM, TROUBLE CODE, or read TECH TIPS on how to diagnose a problem

Click on MAKE an MODEL to see all the articles I've written for your vehicle
Click on REPAIR TOPICS to read individual articles written for specific automotive systems

If you've had your car scanned and know the trouble code go to TROUBLE CODES

Here are some quick links to speed up your research

Click on the link below for speedy navigation:

ABS issues, how to bleed ABS brakes

Airbag issues or SRS light on

Alternator issues or how to test

Belt diagram or serpentine belt issues

Blower motor

Blower motor resistor

Brakes, brake issues, what kind of brake parts to buy, ABS issues

Car Alarms or Antitheft systems

Cooling system, Water pump, What type of coolant to use

Engine flush

Firing order, cylinder layout, finding #1 cylinder

MAF or MAP sensor

Oxygen sensors, How they work, How to change, How to test

PassLock or Passkey

Thermostat issues

Transmission flush

Serpentine belt diagrams

Window issues, power window motor, replace window regulator, glass adhesive

Misfire codes, What to do before you throw a lot of money at the problem

Rick — Sun, 04 Oct 2009 03:21:28 +0000

Many misfire codes are caused by worn spark plugs, leaking spark plug wires, or bad ignition coils. So you should always start your diagnosis with the basics. In this case, it's probably easier and cheaper to replace the plugs and wires since they're cheap and you'll have to remove those parts to check them. If your vehicle has multiple coil packs or coil-on-plug (COP) coils, switch them around to see if the misfire code moves with the switch. If so, you've nailed the problem. If you have distributor ignition and you've already replaced the plugs and wires, it's almost impossible for the ignition coil to cause a misfire on a single cylinder.

If you've done all those swaps and still have the problem, DON'T start throwing expensive parts at the problem. Your next step is to perform a compression test.

A bent, carboned, or burned valve can cause a misfire code for a single or multiple cylinders. A dry compression test tests the valves, a wet test (injecting oil into the cylinder before cranking) tells you the condition of the rings. However, at low cranking speeds a bent, carboned, or burned valve can seat well enough to throw you off course. So do a "snap" compression test as well. That's done on a running engine.

Start by doing a dry cranking compression test and record the readings for each cylinder. Then remove the valve core from your compression gauge, ground the spark plug wire and install the gauge in the suspect cylinder. Start the engine and record the highest reading while at idle. It's usually about 50% of the cranking pressure--that's normal. Then snap the throttle open quickly to wide open throttle (this is really a quick snap procedure--don't let the engine rev up too much). Record the highest compression reading. It should be about 80% of the dry cranking reading. If it's a lot less, especially if it's just one or two cylinders that read low, it's an indication of a valve problem.

Alldatadiy.com

eautorepair.net

Both Alldata and Eautorepair offer professional grade shop manuals at a price you can afford. Check them out!.

Hover your mouse over the REPAIR ARTICLES tab at the top of the page. The click on DIAGNOSTICS to search by SYMPTOM, TROUBLE CODE, or read TECH TIPS on how to diagnose a problem

Click on MAKE an MODEL to see all the articles I've written for your vehicle
Click on REPAIR TOPICS to read individual articles written for specific automotive systems

If you've had your car scanned and know the trouble code go to TROUBLE CODES

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ABS issues, how to bleed ABS brakes

Airbag issues or SRS light on

Alternator issues or how to test

Belt diagram or serpentine belt issues

Blower motor

Blower motor resistor

Brakes, brake issues, what kind of brake parts to buy, ABS issues

Car Alarms or Antitheft systems

Cooling system, Water pump, What type of coolant to use